Colombia Crash Course
The Republic of Colombia, or Colombia, is located on the north western area of South America. Colombia is bordered to the north by the Caribbean Sea which is linked to the Atlantic Ocean; to the east by Venezuela and Brazil; to the south by Peru and Ecuador; and to the west by the Pacific Ocean and Panama. Colombia is the only South American country that borders the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.
Colombia is a large and physically diverse country. Colombia is the fourth-largest country in South America after Brazil, Argentina, and Peru. It has an area seven times greater than that of New England, more than twice that of France, or slightly less than twice the size of Texas, or slightly smaller than California, Washington State, Oregon, and Arizona combined. Colombia is a country of great physical contrasts: snowcapped peaks of the Andes Mountains on the western side; and hot humid plains of the Amazon River Basin on the eastern side. Colombia also has some islands off the coast of Nicaragua; and some Islands in the Pacific Ocean. Colombia has the second largest population of South America. Brazil has the largest population. Most of the Colombian population live in the mountainous western third of the country where most of the large cities are situated including Bogotá, the capital. Because the western region has a pleasant climate and rich soil, it is also where most agricultural activity takes place.
“A 40-year conflict between government forces and anti-government insurgent groups and illegal paramilitary groups - both heavily funded by the drug trade - escalated during the 1990s. The insurgents lack the military or popular support necessary to overthrow the government, and violence has been decreasing since about 2002, but insurgents continue attacks against civilians and large swaths of the countryside are under guerrilla influence.” (2007 CIA World Factbook)
Flag
The current flag of Colombia is a set of three horizontal bands of yellow (top, double-width), blue, and red. Francisco de Miranda created the flag’s original pattern for Venezuela. The pattern was later adopted by Gran Colombia after Simon Bolivar, and others, helped its constituent nations gain independence. The yellow band represents Colombian gold. The blue represents the two oceans that border North and West Colombia. The band of red represents the blood of soldiers that fought and won independence. The color red also represents the blood of Jesus Christ showing Colombia’s Christian roots.
Etymology
Colombia derives its name from Christopher Columbus. The name was conceived by Francisco de Miranda as a reference to the New World. The name was then adopted in 1819 by the Republic of Colombia which was formed by the union of Ecuador, New Granada, and Venezuela. Ecuador and Venezuela separated in 1830 and the remaining Cundinamarca region became a new country called the Republic of New Granada. New Granada officially changed its name in 1863 to United States of Colombia. The Republic of Colombia officially adopted its present name in 1886.
History
Hunter-gatherer societies existed circa 10000 BC near present day Bogotá (at “El Abra” and “Tequendama”). These societies traded with each other and with cultures in the Magdalena River Valley. During the first millennium BC, Amerindians developed a political system of “cacicazgos”. “Cacicazgos” is a pyramidal structure of power headed by “caciques”. The two cultures or societies with the most complex “cacicazgo” systems were the “Tayronas” and the “Muiscas”. The “Tayronas” and the “Muiscas” were of the Chibcha language family. The Tayronas were mostly on the Atlantic or Caribbean coast; and the Muiscas were mostly in the highlands around Bogotá. The Muisca people are considered to have had one of the most advanced political systems in South America. The Incas are considered to have had the most developed political systems.
Pre-Colombian cultures were mostly found scattered in the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, and in the Andean region. Some of the more notable pre-colombian cultures were the Muisca, Tayrona, Quimbaya, San Agustin, Sinu, and Tierradentro. Many tribes produced pottery and jewelry. Some tribes left behind rock paintings and burial chambers that have helped anthropologists better understand their cultures. By the 3rd century, the Chibchas had established their civilization in the northern Andes. At one point, the Chibchas occupied part of what is now Panama the Venezuelan Andes, and the high plains of the Eastern Sierra of Colombia. The areas that they occupied were the Departments of Santander (North and South), Boyacá and Cundinamarca, which were also the areas where the first farms and first industries were developed, and where the independence movement originated. They are currently the richest areas in Colombia. They represented the most populous zone between the Mexican and Inca empires. Next to the Quechua of Peru and the Aymara in Bolivia, the Chibchas of the eastern and north-eastern Highlands of Colombia were the most striking of the sedentary indigenous peoples in South America.
In 1499, Alonso de Ojeda landed on the Guajira Peninsula. The realization that local Indians were wealthy promulgated the myth of “El Dorado”. The shores of present-day Colombia became the target of numerous Spanish expeditions. Rodrigo de Bastidas led the first exploration of the Caribbean coast in 1500. He was closely followed by Christopher Columbus in 1502. Vasco Nunez de Balboa started the conquest of the territory by exploring the region of Uraba in 1508. Vasco de Balboa was also the first European to discover the Pacific Ocean in 1513. He named it “Mar del Sur” or Sea of the South. The discovery of “Mar del Sur” would subsequently bring the Spaniards to Peru and Chile. The first European city on the American Continent was founded in 1525 and was named Santa Maria la Antigua del Darien. Today it’s known as the Choco Department. Most of the population of the territory was made up of hundreds of tribes from the Chibchan and the “Karib” or “Caribbean people”. Soon, a large part of Colombia was conquered by the Spanish, and a number of towns such as Cartagena prospered. Cartagena was founded in 1533.
At first, the Indians tolerated the Spaniards. Indians started rebelling when the colonists tried to enslave them, and confiscate their lands. A tremendous demographic reduction among the indigenous people resulted from warfare with the Spanish Conquistadores, “imported” diseases, exploitation, and the conquests themselves. Europeans began bringing slaves from Africa in the sixteenth century.
Pre-Conquest History
The Mesoamericans (the original inhabitants of Central America), who arrived in approximately 1200 BC, introduced the cultivation of corn. The humid and somewhat less hotter climate brought better conditions for the intensive agriculture of corn, sedentarism, demographic growth & the organization of villages. These people built lithic monuments in El Infiernito, Villa de Leyva. They also exploited salt mines in Zipaquirá, Nemocón and Tausa.
They were followed by a second wave of Mesoamericans in 500 BCE. Artifacts from a number of distinct cultures, such as those in the areas around San Agustín (in present-day Huila Department), Tierra Dentro (Cauca Department), and Tumaco (Nariño Department), are believed to date from this period.
Between 400 and 300 BCE, the Chibchas traveled from Nicaragua and Honduras and reached Colombia, shortly before the Arawaks arrived from other parts of South America, such as Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay. Near the end of the first millennium CE, the Caribs migrated from the Caribbean islands. These warlike newcomers supplanted the Chibchas in the lowlands and forced them to move to higher elevations.
Chibcha Economy
The Chibchas farmed, mined for salt and emeralds, and traded with other groups. They were skilled artists who were known for their pottery, gold work and cotton fabrics. They used emeralds as currency for trading.
The Chibchas had advanced cultivation techniques, and the area they occupied was very fertile. This, coupled with a very disciplined, skilled and experienced pool of agricultural labor, was later used by the colonial farmers (encomenderos & haciendados).
"El Dorado" myth In one of their rituals, the top priest or "cacique" covered his body with gold dust, rode a small boat to the center of Lake Guatavita and submerged himself. This ceremony might have been the origin of the myth of "El Dorado", which attracted many Spanish adventurers, who came looking for places where there was plenty of gold, but never existed in reality.
Culture
From the cultural point of view, the Chibchas were similar to the Inca. They practiced agriculture with the help of an extensive irrigation system. They made cotton fabrics and were experts with gold, making very fine laminates decorated with wire or strip motives and very stylized anthropomorphic figures.
Linguistics
The Chibcha language (Chibchan) was so important in the area that when the Spanish conquerors came they had a communication problem in their quest to evangelize and use native resources. At some point they thought of using it as a main language for the new Kingdom of New Granada, at the same level of the Quechua, Nahuatl and Tupi.
Religion
The creed of the Chibchas was similar to the pantheistic fetishism of American aborigines in general. Human sacrifices were common, but most of the offerings consisted of goods such as gold, emeralds, and fruits of the field. Shamans, or Zeques, were numerous, and acted as medicine men, diviners and/or oracles.
Bochica was the main god, considered a solar god, a great master and civilizator. Among his rivals, there was Chia (the moon), which some considered married to Bochica, and Chibchacum. For some, Chiminigagua was the Chibcha's supreme god.
Chibchacum was protector of the people, the farmers, and the traders. According to a myth, Huitaca put a vengeance plan against the god Bochica. Huitaca spread bad teachings between the Chibchas, who then gave themselves to lust, partying and were unwilling to work. This behavior offended Chibchacum, who decided to punish them with torrential rains, which flooded the plains of Bacatá. Seeing that the rains would not stop, they asked for the intervention of the god Bochica to stop the malefice of Chibchacum, offering Bochica sacrifices and fasting. However, Bochica did not respond to their calls until a long time after they started asking him. One day, when the Chibchas already thought that their god had abandoned them, they finally saw the first ray of sunlight after Bochica, with a stick of gold, opened a trench where the Bacatá plains had flooded. Thus, Bochica created the "Salto del Tequendama". When everything got back to normal, the Chibchas started seeding again and continued their offerings and sacrifices to the god Bochica.
The god Bochica designated the god Chibchacum to carry the Earth on his shoulders. They called the earth Pachamama which means "Mother Earth". At that moment the Earth was sustained over 4 "Guayacanes". Because of this the Chibchas though that all earthquakes were due to the god Chibchacum, who when tired of carrying the earth on one shoulder, passed the earth to the other shoulder. It was also the protector of the traders and the farmers because it would make sure that the Earth would always be guarded and nothing would interrupt its equilibrium.
The myth of the god Chibchacum is similar to some myths of other cultures, such as the Bible's universal deluge or the Greek Atlas designated to carry the Celestial Vault on his shoulders.
Housing
The Chibchas lived in villages, the houses being mostly circular, and of wood and thatch.
Politics
After the Inca, the chibchas constituted states under the strict personal control of the "caciques". They were a culturally developed civilization at the time they encountered the first Spanish conquistadores. The Chibchas had a clan system. At the head of each clan stood a council, guided by the oracular utterances of the leading shamans, while an elective war-chief (Uzaque or Cacique) represented the executive. According to tradition, the tribe of Tunja was the most powerful of the Chibcha tribes until the second half of the 15th century.
European Arrival
The Spanish colonialists prohibited the use of native languages on May 10, 1783, through a decree called "Cédula Real". There were several rebel movements since the beginning of Spanish Conquest and Colonization. Most of these rebel movements were either crushed, or were too weak to change the overall situation. Around 1810, a rebel movement sought outright independence from Spain buoyed by the independence of St. Domingue in 1804. St. Domingue is known as Haiti today. St. Domingue provided a non-negligible degree of support to the eventual leaders of this rebel movement: Simon Bolivar and Francisco de Pau Santander. The rebellion finally succeeded in 1819 and Simon Bolivar became the first president of Colombia, and Francisco de Pau Santander became the first vice president. When Simon Bolivar stepped down, Francisco Santander became the second president of Colombia. The territory of the Viceroyalty of New Granada became the Republic of Great Colombia in 1819. It was basically a confederation with Ecuador, Venezuela, and modern-day Panama.
Venezuela and Quito (today’s Ecuador) seceded from the confederation in 1830. The territory that remained after the secession of Venezuela and Ecuador (it was called “Department of Cundinamarca”) adopted the new name of “Nueva Granada”. In 1856, “Nueva Granada” became the “Confederacion Granadina” (Grenadine Confederation). The “United States of Colombia” was created in 1863 and lasted until 1886 when the country finally became known as the Republic of Colombia. Modern-day Panama remained a Colombian department until 1903 when Panama became independent. After years of internal divisions that occasionally ignited into very bloody civil wars, the country achieved a relative degree of political stability soon after 1903. Political stability was interrupted by a bloody conflict that took place during the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. This period is known as “La Violencia” or “The Violence”. The cause of “La Violencia” was mainly due to mounting tensions between partisan groups. Tensions were really reignited when Jorge Eliecer Gaitan was murdered on April 9, 1948. This event is known as the Bogotazo, and it claimed the lives of at least 180,000 people.
Modern History
A new constitution was drafted by the Constituent Assembly of Colombia that was ratified in 1991, and replaced the previous 1886 document. The new constitution included provisions on human, gender, political and ethnic rights. Though uneven developments, setbacks, and surrounding controversies have persisted, these new provisions have gradually been put into practice.
In recent decades the country has been plagued by the effects of the influential drug trade and by guerrilla insurgents such as the Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia), or FARC, and illegal counter-insurgency paramilitary groups such as the Autodefensas Unidas de Colombia (United Self-Defense Forces of Colombia), or AUC, which along with other minor factions have been engaged in a bloody internal armed conflict. The powerful drug cartels have helped the Colombian balance of trade by creating a steady and substantial influx of foreign currency, mainly U.S. dollars. On the other hand, the druglords have destabilized the government and, in the 1980s, the neighbouring country of Panama was invaded by the United States in 1989 to remove strongman General Manue Noriega because of his alleged links to the drug trade. The different insurgent irregular groups often resort to kidnapping and drug smuggling to fund their causes, tend to operate in large areas of the remote rural countryside and can sometimes disrupt communications and travel between different regions. Since the early 1980s, attempts at reaching a negotiated settlement between the government and the different rebel groups have been made, either failing or achieving only the partial demobilization of some of the parties involved. One of the last such attempts was made during the administration of President Andrés Pastrana Arango, which negotiated with the FARC between 1998 and 2002.
In the late 1990s, President Andrés Pastrana implemented an initiative named Plan Colombia, with the dual goal of ending the armed conflict and promoting a strong anti-narcotic strategy. The most controversial element of the Plan, which also included a smaller number of funds for institutional and alternative development, was considered to be its anti-narcotic strategy, consisting on an increase in aerial fumigations to eradicate coca. This activity came under fire from several sectors, which claimed that fumigation also damages legal crops and has adverse health effects upon population exposed to the herbicides. Critics of the initiative also claim that the plan represents a military approach to problems that have additional roots in the social inequalities of the country. While drug production initially decreased, farmers moved to other areas and began cultivating again. Lately, farmers have started planting coca in national parks where laws prevent spraying.
During the presidency of Álvaro Uribe, who was elected on the promise to apply military pressure on the FARC and other criminal groups, some security indicators have improved, showing a decrease in reported kidnappings (from 3700 in the year 2000 to 800 in 2005) and a decrease of more than 48% in homicides between July 2002 and May 2005. It is argued that these improvements have favored economic growth and tourism.
Analysts and critics inside Colombia agree that there has been a degree of practical improvement in several of the mentioned fields, but the exact reasons for the figures themselves have sometimes been disputed, as well as their specific accuracy. Some opposition sectors have criticized the government's security strategy, claiming that it is not enough to solve Colombia's complex problems and that it has contributed to creating a favorable environment for the continuation of some human rights abuses. 23561154301499786220891
Flora and Fauna
Animal life is abundant, especially in the tropical area. Among carnivorous species are puma, a variety of smaller cats, raccoons, and mustelids. Herbivores include the tapir, peccary, deer, and large tropical rodents. Sloths, anteaters, opossums, and several types of monkeys are also found, as well as some 1,665 species and subspecies of South American and migratory birds.
More than 45,000
Animal life is abundant, especially in the tropical area. Among carnivorous species are puma, a variety of smaller cats, raccoons, and mustelids. Herbivores include the tapir, peccary, deer, and large tropical rodents. Sloths, anteaters, opossums, and several types of monkeys are also found, as well as some 1,665 species and subspecies of South American and migratory birds.
Geography
Colombia has more physical diversity packed into its borders than any other area of comparable size in Latin America. For starters, Colombia is part of the “Ring of Fire”. The Pacific “Ring of Fire” is a region of the world basically around the Pacific Ocean that is characterized by volcanic eruptions and frequent earthquakes.
Geographic regions
Geographers have devised different ways to divide Colombia into regions. It is most appropriate to divide the country into four geographic regions: the Andean highlands, consisting of the three Andean ranges and intervening valley lowlands; the Caribbean lowlands coastal region; the Pacific lowlands coastal region, separated from the Caribbean lowlands by swamps at the base of the Isthmus of Panama; and eastern Colombia, the great plain that lies to the east of the Andes Mountains.
Andean Highlands
The Andes Mountains run the whole length of South America from Tierra del Fuego and into Panama. Near the border with Ecuador, the Andes Mountains divide into three distinct and roughly parallel chains or arms of mountains called “cordilleras” that run northeastward almost to the Caribbean Sea. Some mountains in these cordilleras can reach altitudes of 5,700 meters, with peaks permanently covered in snow. The elevated plateaus and basins amongst these cordilleras have a climate that provide pleasant living conditions, and enable farmers in many of these locations to harvest their crops twice a year. The rivers on the slopes of the mountains can produce a large hydroelectric power potential during torrential rains. These rivers add their volume to the navigable rivers in the valleys of the cordilleras. Approximately 78% of the Colombian population lived in the Andean highlands during the late 1980’s.
The three cordilleras that run from the south to the northeast, along the western side of Colombia, are called the Cordillera Occidental in the west; the Cordillera Central in the middle; and the Cordillera Oriental along the eastern side. The three cordilleras have different geological characteristics. The Cordillera Occidental and Central form the western and eastern sides of a huge crystalline arch that extends from the southern border with Ecuador to the Caribbean lowlands. The Cordillera Oriental, on the other hand, is made up of folded stratified rocks overlaying a crystalline core.
The Cordillera Occidental is the least populated of the three cordilleras, and its mountains are relatively low in altitude as compared to its cousins in the other cordilleras. The summits of mountains in the Cordillera Occidental are only about 3,000 meters above sea level, and they do not have any permanent snow. The vegetation in the Cordillera Occidental is mostly pretty dense, and even tropical on the western slopes of the mountains. There are few passes in the Cordillera Occidental. There is a pass at about 1,520 meters above sea level that provides the major city of Cali with a pass to the Pacific Ocean.
The Cordillera Central contains the loftier mountains of the three cordilleras. The crystalline rocks of the Cordillera Central form an 800 kilometer towering wall with snow-covered volcanoes and summits. There are no basins or plateaus in the Cordillera Central, and there are no passes under 3,300 meters in altitude. The two highest peaks in the cordillera central are the Nevado del Huila at 5,439 meters above sea level; and the Nevado del Ruiz. El Nevado del Ruiz is a volcano that last erupted on November 13, 1985. The northern end of the Cordillera Central splits into several branches that descend down toward the Caribbean Ocean.
The deep rift of the Cauca Valley separates the Cordillera Occidental from the Cordillera Central. The Rio Cauca, or Cauca river, rises within 200 kilometers of the border with Ecuador. The Rio Cauca flows through some of the best farmland in Colombia. The Cauca Valley turns into a deep gorge, after the cordilleras converge, that runs all the way to the Caribbean lowlands.
Next to the Cordillera Central is the Cordillera Oriental. The 1,600 kilometer-long Rio Magdalena flows between the Cordillera Central and the Cordillera Oriental. This river rises about 180 kilometers north of the border with Ecuador, where the cordilleras diverge, and flows into the Caribbean Sea. The Rio Magdalena has a very spacious drainage area that is fed by many mountain torrents that originate high in the snowfields. It is generally navigable from the Caribbean Sea to the town of Neiva deep in the interior of the country. There are rapids about half-way to Neiva. The floor of the Magdalena River valley is very deep. At about 800 kilometers from the river’s mouth on the Caribbean Sea, the elevation of the valley is no more than about 300 meters.
There are three large fertile basins, and a number of small fertile basins, in the Cordillera Oriental at elevations between 2,500 and 2,700 meters. These fertile basins are very suitable areas for settlement, and for intensive economic production. European invaders established the town of Santa Fe de Bogota (now known as Bogota) at an elevation of 2,650 meters above sea level in the basin of Cundinamarca. Spanish conquistadores discovered the Chibcha Indians in the basin of Cundinamarca. The two densely populated basins of Boyaca and Chiquinquira are located north of Bogota. These two basins contain rich mines, fertile fields, and large industrial establishments that produce much of the national wealth.
The Cordillera Oriental makes an abrupt turn to the northwest near the Venezuelan border. The Sierra Nevada de Cocuy is the highest elevation on this range at 5,493 meters above sea level. The valleys on the western slopes in the department of Santander are spacious. Agriculture is intensive around Bucaramanga. The northernmost region of the range, near Cucuta, is so rugged that its easier to maintain transportation and communication with Venezuela than with the rest of Colombia.
Caribbean Lowlands
The Caribbean lowlands region is roughly the shape of a triangle. The longest side of the triangle is Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Or, stated differently, the Caribbean Lowlands consists of all of Colombia north of an imaginary line between the Golfo de Uraba (near Panama) to the Venezuelan frontier at the northern extremity of the Cordillera Oriental. The “Peninsula de la Guajira” in the extreme north east of Colombia, and bordering Venezuela, bears little resemblance to the rest of the lowlands region. The “Peninsula de la Guajira” is a semi-arid region.
The “Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta” is also found in the Caribbean Lowlands region. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is an isolated outcrop of a mountain system with peaks reaching heights of over 5,700 m. and with slopes that are too steep to cultivate.
The Caribbean Lowlands region is the second most important economic region of Colombia, next to the Andean highlands region. Most of the country’s commerce moves through the ports of either Santa Marta, Barranquilla, Cartagena, or other ports located along the Caribbean coast. Inland from these ports, and the Caribbean Sea, are swamps, shallow lakes, and hidden streams. The area supports banana plantations, cotton plantations, numerous small farms, and cattle ranches in the higher elevations. The two great river valleys of the Cauca River and the Magdalena River connect and merge the Andean Highlands and the Caribbean Lowlands. In the late 1980’s, 17% of the country’s population lived in the Caribbean Lowlands region.
Pacific Lowlands
The Pacific Lowlands region is bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the Cordillera Occidental on the east. It’s a region of jungle and swamp, with considerable potential in minerals and other resources. The only port of any size on the Pacific Ocean side of Colombia is Buenaventura. Most of the streams that flow out of the Cordillera Occidental flow westward into the Pacific Ocean through the Pacific Lowlands region. But the largest river in the region, the Rio Atrato flows northward into the Golfo de Uraba. The Rio Atrato is navigable, enabling the river settlements accessible to major Atlantic ports, and the Caribbean lowlands hinterland. The Serrania de Baudó, to the west of the Rio Atrato, is an isolated chain of low lying mountains that occupies a good portion of the region. The highest elevation in the Serrania de Baudó is less than 1,800 meters. The vegetation in the Serrania de Baudó resembles that of the surrounding tropical forest. Only 3% of all Colombians lived in the Pacific Lowlands region in the late 1980’s.
The Atrato swamp is a deep muck sixty-five kilometers in width – in the Choco Department adjoining the Panama border – that has perpetually challenged engineers seeking to complete the Pan American Highway. This stretch, near turbo, is known as the Tapon del Choco or Chocon plug. There are two major projects proposed for the Choco Department: the first is to unplug the Choco plug; and the second project proposal is an interoceanic canal to be constructed by dredging the Rio Atrato and other streams, and digging short access canals. Completion of either of these projects would do much to improve this slumberous region.
Eastern Colombia
The geographical area east of the Andes includes about 699,300 square kilometers, or three fifths of Colombia’s total area. The entire area is known as the eastern plains. The Spanish term for plains is llanos. The Sierra de Macarena, in the Meta Department, is the only area in the whole Eastern region with any noticeable elevations. Scientists are interested in this particular area because it is believed that the flora and fauna in this area is reminiscent of those that once existed throughout the Andes. Many of the numerous large rivers in the eastern lowlands are navigable. The Rio Guaviare divides the region into the llanos sub-region of the North, and the tropical rainforest or selva sub-region of the south. The Guaviare River, and the streams to its north, flow eastward and drain into the Orinoco river basin. The Orinoco River is the largest river in Venezuela. Rivers and streams to the south of the Guaviare River flow into the Amazon River basin. The eastern plains region was home to only 2% of Colombia’s population in the late 1980’s. Many Colombians view it as an alien land.
General topography
Colombia’s topographical features form complicated patterns:
• The western third of the country is by far the most complex. Starting at the shore of the Pacific Ocean in the west and moving eastward at a latitude of 5 degrees north, a diverse sequence of features is encountered. The very narrow and discontinuous Pacific coastal lowlands in the extreme west are backed up by the Serrania de Baudo – the lowest and narrowest of Columbia’s mountain ranges.
• The broad region of the Rio Atrato and Rio San Juan lowlands is next. This area has been proposed as a possible alternate to the Panama Canal as a human-made route between the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans.
• The three main mountain ranges or cordilleras are next: Cordillera Occidental or chief western mountain range is a moderately high range of peaks reaching up to about 13,000 ft (4,000 m); the Cauca River Valley separates the Cordillera Occidental from the Cordillera Central. The Cauca River valley is an important agricultural region with several large cities; The Cordillera Central has several snow-clad volcanoes with summits rising above 18,000 ft (5,500 m); The Magdalena River valley separates the Cordillera Central from the main eastern range or Cordillera Oriental. The Magdalena River is a slow-flowing muddy river that is a major transportation artery. The Cordillera Oriental contains several large basins, and peaks that are moderately high.
• The eastern region covers almost 60 percent of the country’s total land area and contains gently rolling eastern lowlands and a flat area called llanos. This region is sparsely populated.
• The two other regions are the Caribbean coastal lowlands and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Both of these regions are in the northern part of the country. The coastal lowlands in the west are mostly swampy and the reed-filled marshes are called cienagas. The Guajira Peninsula in the east is semi-arid. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is a magnificent triangular snow-capped block of rock that towers over the eastern part of this lowland.
Climate
Colombia’s climate is as varied as its topography. There are two main factors that affect Columbia’s climate: its proximity to the equator, and the altitude of its cordilleras. Lowland areas are continuously hot because of its proximity to the equator. Temperatures in the cordilleras varies according to the altitude of a location. Temperatures decrease about 3.5°F or 2°C for every 1000 feet or 300 meter increase in altitude above sea level.
The amount of rainfall also varies by location but it generally tends to increase as one travels southward. As an example, the Guajira Peninsula in the north east region seldom exceeds 30 in. or 75 cm per year; while the rainy southeast region is often drenched with more than 200 in or 500 cm of rain per year. Generally, the amount of rainfall in other regions of the country runs between these two extremes.
Colombia has two seasons: verano (dry/summer) and invierno (wet/winter). The pattern of seasons varies in different parts of the country, and has been greatly affected over recent years by El Niño and La Niña. As a rough guideline only, in the Andean region there are two dry and two rainy seasons per year. The main dry season falls between December and March, with a shorter and less dry period between July and August. This general pattern has wide variations throughout the Andean zone.
The weather in Los Llanos has a more definite pattern: there is one dry season, between December and March, while the rest of the year is wet. The Amazon doesn't have a uniform climate but, in general, is quite wet year-round.
Columbia’s vegetation is also as varied as its topography and climate. The mountainous areas can be divided into several vegetation zones according to altitude. The altitude limits of each zone may also vary somewhat depending on latitude:
• The tierra caliente or “hot land” is the vegetation zone of tropical crops such as bananas. This zone is below 3,300 ft or 1,000 m.
• The tierra templada or “temperate land” is the vegetation zone of coffee and maize. This zone has altitudes between 3,300 to 6,600 ft or 1,000 to 2,000 m.
• The zona forestada or “forested zone” has altitudes between 10,500 to12,800 ft or 3,200 to 3,900 m. Many trees in this zone have been cut for firewood.
• The alpine grasslands or paramos are dominated by treeless pastures. This zone has altitudes between 12,800 to 15,100 ft or 3,900 to 4,600 m.
• The tierra helada zone of basically permanent snow and ice, where temperatures are below freezing, is at altitudes greater than 15,100 ft or 4,600 m.
Rainfall patterns also affect vegetation. As an example, the semi-arid northeast region is dominated by scrubs of scattered trees and bushes. The Colombian portion of the llanos in the south east is covered by savannah or tropical grasslands. The rainy southwest is blanketed by tropical rainforest. The spotty pattern of precipitation in the alpine areas complicates vegetation patterns: the rainy side of a mountain could be lush and green, while the other side of the mountain may be parched.
Coca cultivation is a major illegal business in Colombia. In several rural regions, large tracts of land have been used for coca plant cultivation. According to U.S. figures, in 2004 an estimated 114,100 hectares of land were used to grow the plant, and the nation had a producing potential of 430 metric tons of cocaine per year. According to a United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime survey, coca cultivation was estimated at 86,000 hectares in 2005.
Demographics of Colombia
Colombia, with over 48 million people, has the third largest population in Latin America. Brazil and Mexico are first and second, respectively. Colombia experienced rapid population growth like most developing countries, but four decades of civil war and urban violence combined with mass poverty rates pushed millions of Colombians out of the country. However, a rebound economy in the 2000's in urban centres (perhaps the most urbanized Latin American nation) may improve the situation of living standards for Colombians in a traditional class stratified economyUrbanization
Movement from rural to urban areas was very heavy in the middle of the twentieth century, but has since tapered off. The urban population increased from 31% of the total population in 1938, to 57% in 1951 and about 70% by 1990. Currently the figure is about 77%. There are thirty cities in Colombia with a population greater than 100,000. The nine eastern lowland departments account for about 54% of Colombia’s area but have less than 3% of the population. That represents a population density of less than one person per square kilometer, or two people per square mile.
Ethnic diversity
The country has a diverse population that reflects its colourful history and the peoples that have populated here from ancient times to the present. The historic amalgam of three main groups are the basics of Colombia's current demographics: indigenous Amerindians, European immigrants, and African slaves, have intermingled without limitation in its' history.
Many of the indigenous peoples were absorbed into the mestizo population, but the remaining 700,000 currently represent over 85 distinct cultures. Using language and customs as a base, less than 1% of Colombia’s population can be identified as being fully indigenous. Most of the indigenous population live in the country's flatlands in the south and east.
The European immigrants were primarily Spanish colonists, but many other Europeans (Italian, German, French, Swiss and in smaller numbers Belgian, Lithuanian, Dutch, English and Croatian communities) immigrated during the Second World War (1930-1945) and the Cold War (1945-1990).
Other smaller immigrant populations include Asians and Middle Easterners, particularly Arabs, Chinese, Japanese, Koreans, Southeast Asians (esp. Vietnam after the end of the Vietnam war), Armenians arrived in large numbers after WWI, and east Indians or Pakistanis settled in Colombia.
The Africans were brought as slaves, mostly to the coastal lowlands, beginning early in the sixteenth century, and continuing into the nineteenth century. After abolition, a national ideology of mestizaje encouraged the mixing of the indigenous and Afro-Colombian communities into a single mestizo ethnic identity.
Colombian culture, cuisine, music and social life are from the polyglot ethnic and racial balance. One famous Colombian emigrant, pop music singer Shakira is herself of French and Lebanese Arab ancestry.
Migration
By 2006, Colombia has accumulated millions of internally displaced persons. At least 1.5 million of them are registered in the government's databases. NGOs and others estimate that the actual number could be as high 2 to 3 million, which would the highest number of any country in the western hemisphere, and second worldwide, after Sudan. Most of the displaced do not live in camps, bur rather disperse themselves throughout Colombia's own cities, an estimated 40% in the ten largest urban areas.
In recent years, the main destination for those Colombians that have left their nation for economic reasons and the effects of the internal conflict has been neighboring Venezuela and other Latin American countries, including Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador, Mexico, Panama and Costa Rica.
Historically, a sizable percentage of Colombian emigration has also been motivated by the need to escape from political persecution and bipartisan violence during the periods of "La Violencia" (1948-1958), and later due to the effects of the nation's current conflict (since 1964). This has resulted in numerous applications for political asylum abroad.
Colombians have emigrated in comparably high rates to the US (esp. to Miami, Florida, the largest Colombian American community). Colombian enclaves appeared in Los Angeles, New York City, Chicago, San Francisco and Washington, DC. Other Colombians migrated to Canada and Europe (most to Spain, but also to France and Italy, and Great Britain, which has a sizable Colombian community in London, England). Tens of thousands went to Japan and even a few thousand to Australia, among other locations.
Economy of Colombia
Colombia’s economy used to be highly regulated. The economy has been evolving towards a free market economy for over a decade. Today, Colombia has a free market economy with investment and commercial links to the United States.
Economic History
President Cesar Gaviria Trujillo started liberalizing the economy of Colombia in 1990. His economic policies were called “apertura economica” and they continue to this day. Some of the new policies included tariff reductions, privatization, financial deregulation, and an increasingly liberal exchange rate. Slowly, more and more sectors of the economy were opened to foreign investors, except for agricultural products.
Trujillo’s Minister of Finance, Rudolf Hommes, thought that Colombia should import agricultural products in which Colombia was not competitive (such as wheat, cotton, soybeans and maize) and export agricultural products in which Colombia had an advantage such as fruits and flowers. The policy made food affordable for Colombians but the sector lost 7,000 to imports. Most of this loss was due to importing heavily subsidized products from the U.S., and it critically impacted rural employment.
The first several years of “apertura economica” resulted in economic growth rates of 4 to 5%. Colombia’s economy was fairly stable until about 1997.
The administration of Ernesto Samper (1994-1998) started emphasizing social welfare policies that led to higher government spending. Higher government spending led to an increased federal deficit. Financing the debt implied higher interest rates, and the Colombian peso continued to be over-valued. Eventually, Colombia’s economy slowed down. By 1998, the GDP growth was 0.6%.
President Andrés Pastrana Arango took office on August 7, 1998. He faced an economy in crisis, a difficult internal security situation, and a global economic turbulence that inhibited confidence. A recession occurred in 1999 – the first since the depression. In 1999, Colombia’s foreign debt was $34.5 billion. Colombia’s sovereign debt was dropped to lower than investment grade by international credit rating organizations due to high fiscal deficits that current fiscal policies are attempting to close. International reserves have remained stable at around $8.35 billion. The Government then engaged a series of controlled devaluations of the peso, and eventually decided to let the peso float. The Government also entered into an agreement with the IMF or International Monetary Fund which provided a $2.7 billion guarantee (extended funds facility) which committed the government to structural reforms and budget discipline. Throughout this, Colombia has remained in international capital markets.
The beginning of an economic recovery started in early 2000. The economic recovery was led by the export sector because it enjoyed the more competitive exchange rate, and petroleum prices were strong. Petroleum is Colombia’s leading export product. The other principal export of Colombia is coffee but coffee prices have been more variable. During 2000, inflation was 9.0%, economic growth reached 3.1%, but unemployment did not improve significantly.
Alvaro Uribe was elected president on August 7, 2002. Various financial institutions praised President Uribe’s economic reforms. One of his economic reforms was to introduce measures to reduce the public deficit to less than 2.5% of GDP in 2004. In 2003, Colombia’s GDP growth of over 4% was among the highest in Latin America. There’s a growing sense of confidence in Colombia’s economy, especially by the business sector. The growing confidence is not solely attributable to government’s economic policy, but also to the government’s democratic security strategy.
Mining and energy
Colombia has an abundance of natural resources and minerals: the largest reserves of coal in South America are in Colombia; its hydroelectric potential is second only to Brazil’s hydroelectric potential; it possesses significant amounts of gold, silver, nickel, emeralds, and platinum; and petroleum reserves were estimated at 3.1 billion barrels in 1995. Colombia has been a net oil exporter since 1986. This is largely due to the discovery of high quality oil in the Cupiaga and Cusiana oil fields, which are approximately 200 km east of the capital. Oil exploration increased after the government of Andrés Pastrana Arango significantly liberalized petroleum investment policies. Even though Colombia exports oil, it has to import refined products, especially gasoline, because its refining capacity cannot meet domestic demand. There are plans to construct additional refining capacity.
Colombia’s hydroelectric potential is second to Brazil’s hydroelectric potential. A long drought in 1992, however, forced the government to ration electricity until mid-1993. The drought, and its impact, convinced the government to either upgrade or build 10 power plants. Half of these plants will be coal-fired, and the other half will be natural gas power plants. There are also plans to make natural gas available to millions of Colombians by the middle of the next decade. This will also involve constructing a natural gas pipeline from Colombia’s extensive natural gas fields to its major cities. The government has begun awarding bids for the construction of this natural gas pipeline. Another pipeline is under construction that will connect western Venezuela to Panama through Colombia.
Colombia became a net energy exporter in 2004 when it started exporting electricity to Ecuador. Colombia is also developing connections to Venezuela, Panama, and Peru, to export to them as well.
Human Rights Abuse in Mining Zones
Pipelines, especially oil pipelines, area a common bombing target by two of the largest insurgent groups in Colombia: the National Liberation Army or ELN; and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia or FARC. These bombings have caused significant loss of life; displaced people; and damaged the environment. Bombings occur, on average, about 1 in 6 days.
As an example, a helicopter from the Colombian Air Force attacked guerrillas near Santo Domingo on the morning of December 13, 1998. The army had been in a two-day combat with the FARC. The army was protecting Occidental Petroleum from the FARC. When the bombing was over, 7 children and 10 civilian bodies were found in Santo Domingo. Colombian civil prosecutors questioned the helicopter crew. The helicopter crew stated that it was not their fault that an AirScan Skymaster surveillance plane had given them the wrong coordinates for the planned bombing attack. A Colombian military court took over the case because the bombing was an official military event. An informal non-binding tribunal was organized in September of 2000 at Chicago’s Northwestern University. The tribunal concluded that, basically, everybody was mutually culpable for the deaths. The tribunal also decided that the case should be tried in civil court; that reparations should be made to the victims; that special aid should be given for the children; support for the US military unit should be suspended; and that certification for human rights, which is required for approval of US aid through Plan Colombia should also be suspended. In April of 2003, the case was brought before a Federal Court in California.
Investors from the U.S., Canada, and other countries met in April of 1999 at Cartagena de Indias. Then Energy Secretary Bill Richardson, of the Clinton administration, was a guest speaker. He stated that the United States was willing to use military aid to support the investments that the U.S., its allies, and investors were going to make in Colombia – especially strategic investments in energy and mining.
The second largest oil pipeline in Colombia travels 780 km from Caño Limón to Coveñas on the Caribbean coast. There were 170 attacks on this pipeline in 2002, and the pipeline was out of service for 266 days. The Colombian government estimated that the GDP decreased by 0.5% as a result of these on-going bombings. In 2003, the United States increased military aid to Colombia in an effort to safeguard the pipeline. Also, Occidental Petroleum contracted mercenaries to patrol the pipeline with Skymaster planes from AirScan International Inc. The U.S. military, and anti-narcotics aid programs, have also provided equipment, weapons, and helicopters for many of these operations.
The current pseudo liberal economic policies and processes, which are supported by the World Bank and many others, are inextricably linked with violence. There are many actors involved in the internal conflict. 68% of forced displacement in the country occurs in mining zones (mostly in mining municipios of Rio Blanco-Ataco in Tolima, La Gabarra and surrounding areas in Norte de Santander, the municipios of the South of Bolivar, and Barrancabermeja in Santander).
In 1996 and 2001, after new mining codes were written, huge increases in human rights violations in the zones affected by the legislation were reported. In Bolivar there was a 1000% increase in homicides, forced disappearances, injuries, torture, and arbitrary detentions. Between 1997 and 1998, forced displacements in the south of Bolivar grew by 1500%, as the paramilitary operation was implemented. The departements that showed the highest increase in human rights violations were also those that with the greatest concentration of mining operations: Antioquia, Bolivar, Norte de Santander, and Cesar. Others with high levels of oil and gas production, like Arauca and Putumayo, show the same rates. Over the past fifteen years in Colombia, a union leader has been assassinated every other day. During the government of Alvaro Uribe Velez the number has fallen slightly, to one every five days. The national union of mine workers Sintraminercol has been facing dissolution. Since Alvaro Uribe Velez's government has come into office, an indigenous person has been assassinated every five days, most of these in areas of natural resource exploitation.
Mining and Natural Exploitaton has had environmental consequences. The region of Guajira is undergoing an accelerated desertification with the disappearances of forests, land, and water sources, due to the increase in coal production.
Social consequences or lack of development in resource rich areas is common. Eleven million Colombians survive on less than one dollar a day. Over 65% of these live in mining zones. There are 3.5 million children out of school, and the most critical situation is in the mining zone of Choco, Bolivar, and Sucre.
Economic consequences of privatization and liberal institutions have meant changes in taxation to attract foreign investment. Colombia will lose another $800 million over the next ninety years that Glencore International operates in El Cerrejon Zona Media, if the company continues to produce coal at a rate of 5 million tons/year, because of the reduction of the royalty tax from 10-15% to .04%. If the company, as is plausible, doubles or triples its production, the losses will be proportionally greater. The operational losses from the three large mining projects (El Cerrejon, La Loma, operated by Drummond, and Montelibano, which produces ferronickel) for Colombia to more than 12 billion. Just $10 billion would be enough to provide employment for Colombia's three million unemployed, to save the lives of the up to 160 children who die daily of hunger, malnutrition and curable diseases, and to have avoided the closing of over 20 hospitals around the country, which has created a humanitarian emergency in the poorest sectors of the population.
Coal production has grown rapidly, from 22.7 million tons in 1994 to 50.0 million tons in 2003. Over 90% of this amount was exported, making Colombia the world's sixth largest coal exporter, behind Australia, the People's Republic of China, Indonesia, South Africa and Russia. From the mid-1980s the center of coal production was the Cerrejón mines in the Guajira department. However, the growth in output at La Loma in neighboring Cesar mean that this department has been the leader in coal production since 2004. Production in other departments, including Boyacá, Cundinamarca and Norte de Santander, forms about 13% of the total. The coal industry is largely controlled by international mining companies, including a consortium of BHP Billiton, Anglo American and Glencore International at Cerrejón, and Drummond Company at La Loma, which is undergoing a lawsuit in the U.S. District Court in Alabama for union assassinations and alleged paramilitary links.
Trade
In 1998, the estimated balance of trade was a $3.8 billion deficit. In 1999, Colombia’s estimated balance of trade showed a surplus of $910 million on exports of $11.5 billion and imports of $10.6 billion. In 2000, the estimated balance of trade is almost a $3.0 billion surplus based on approximately $14.0 billion of exports, and $11.2 billion imports. Colombia’s major exports include: petroleum, coffee, coal, gold, nickel, and non-traditional exports such as cut flowers, semi-precious stones, tropical fruits, and sugar. The United States was Colombia’s major trading partner in 1999 with the US taking 48.5% of exports and providing 42.1% of imports. Other major trading partners are Andean Pact countries (including Venezuela), Japan, and the EU.
Foreign Investment
In 1990, to attract foreign investors and promote trade, an experiment from the IMF known as "la apertura" was adopted by the government as an open trade strategy. Although the analysis of the results are not clear, the fact is that the agricultural sector was severely impacted by this policy.
During 1991 and 1992, the government passed laws to stimulate foreign investment in nearly all sectors of the economy except for: defense and national security, disposal of hazardous wastes, and real estate. The restriction on real estate is intended to hinder money laundering. A special entity called CoInvertir was established to assist foreigners in making investments in Colombia.
Some of the major foreign investment projects underway include the development of coal fields in northern Colombia, a $6 billion development of the Cupiagua and Cusiana oil fields, and a recently concluded licensing to establish cellular telephone service.
Colombia is the 26th largest market for U.S. products worldwide, and it is the fifth-largest Latin American export market behind Mexico, Brazil, Venezuela, and Argentina. Colombia’s principal trading partner is the United States. Two-way trade between the United States and Colombia from November 1999 through to November 2000 exceeded $9.5 billion on $3.5 billion U.S. exports and $6.0 billion U.S. imports. Areas that attract the greatest U.S. investment interest include petroleum and natural gas, coal mining, manufacturing, and chemical industries.
Although Colombia improved protection for intellectual property rights by adopting three Andean Pact decisions in 1993 and 1994, the U.S. remains concerned over patent regulations, copyright protection, and deficiencies in licensing. U.S.-dominated sectors have more favorable worker rights and benefits than general working conditions: higher wages, shorter-than-average working hours, and compliance with health, safety, and environmental standards above the national average.
Industry and Agriculture
A wide variety of crops are cultivated in Colombia because of its diverse topography and climate. Some of the crops grown between sea level and 1,000 meters include bananas, coconuts, sugarcane, Cacao, rice, plantain, cotton, cassava, and tobacco. Most of the nation’s beef is also produced in these hot regions of less than 1,000 m. Some of the crops grown between 1,000 m. and 2,000 m. include coffee, maize, certain flowers, certain vegetables, and fruits (pears, tomatoes, and pineapples). Crops grown between 2,000 m. and 3,000 m. include dairy cattle, wheat, potatoes, barley, flowers, poultry, and cold-climate vegetables.
Culture and respect
Generally avoid discussing politics or the present civil war in public, except with well-known acquaintances or relatives that have your trust and confidence. In general, nobody will react with violence to different opinions, but the hearts of Colombians suffer great pain remembering all the victims of the political and narcotics wars of past and current conflicts.
Accordingly, do not approach these subjects in your first conversation with a Colombian. Even if you want to denote being informed about the country's main issues, most Colombians will find it rude if your first association of the country is with drugs, war, or corruption. Most likely they will answer with "Colombia has many more wonderful things besides that", which is true, and turn away.
Always say "please" ("Por favor" or "Hagame el favor") and "thank you" ("muchas gracias") for anything, to anyone. Colombians, at least in Bogota, tend to be very polite and formal, and explicitly good manners win the approval of those around you. Sometimes it can sound rude to Bogotans if sombody calls you and you answer with just an "Ehhh?"--the proper response being "Señora?" or "Señor?", depending on who's calling you.
In addition, Colombians tend to speak their minds and opinions quite freely. They are also not shy of asking questions about health, salary or social status and thinking--topics that coud be offensive to others or considered personal information.
Most Colombians are laid back regarding racist issues, since white or creole persons blend naturally with natives and Afro-Colombians in everyday life (education, living, politics, marriage). So the word "negro" can be used regardless of who's saying it, or who is being referred to in this way. You can hear expressions like "negrito" or "mi negro" in a restaurant or on the street. You could hear someone calling "negra" to a woman, regardless of the race of the person. And in general, Afro-Colombians don't find it offensive, as they are simply variations on the Spanish word for "black". But remember, even if you're not a tourist, when you use the word "Negro", try not to apply any rude tones or use the word in a despective form, because that will mean that you're using it in a racist way.
Differences between Brits, Americans or Europeans are not perceived by most Colombians. Hence, you can expect to be called "gringo" even if you are, say, Russian. Don't let this offend you as a non Spanish-speaking visitor.
The same statement could be issued regarding Asian visitors. Due to the fact that the most common Asian ethnicity in Colombia is Chinese, very often visitors from the Pacific Rim and the Far East such as Japanese, Thailand, Malaysian, among others, are considered the same race, hence, the expression "Chino" for males and "China" for women (Chinese in either case) to all people coming from an Asian ethnicity. If this is your case, trying to point out your ethnical and cultural background will be difficult, so passing by this perception could avoid uncomfortable situations and instead will allow you get in touch with the warmth and friendliness of Colombians.
Colombians have a very unusual and funny mannerism of pointing to objects with their mouths. Sometimes it is because pointing to a person with the finger may be considered a rude gesture in Colombia.
Regarding table manners, a lot of the more traditional elder Colombians hate when the guest leaves some of the food uneaten on the plate. This sometimes can be uncomfortable to visitors due to the "exotic" food that can be served, like tamales (with the green wet leaves envelope). However, you can explain your fears regarding certain foods--they'll understand. When you are eating with young people, you can negotiate and even ask what is going to be eaten in the first place.
Colombians like to dance a lot. It's part of the cultural ancestry. And as in another Central and South American countries, it's very common to hear and feel rhythmic music such as salsa, son, merengue, cumbia or reggaeton. Anyone will be glad to teach you how to dance, and they will not expect you to do it correctly, since they have been practicing every weekend their whole life. Colombian night life evolves around dancing, and bars where people sit or stand are rare.
In Bogota, Andres Carne de Res is especially famous and El Salto del Angel. Also in Medellin you can find great places like the "fondas", they´re places that resemble the old country houses in the Antioquia region. You can find many objects, pictures and other artifacts that are part of the coffee culture. They're great places to eat and dance, and you will want to visit them every time you come to Colombia
Regarding religion, most Colombians are Catholic, and it´s important to them to keep certain ceremonies and respect for all things related to religion. You could visit great architectural churches, even going inside, but taking pictures may be considered disrespectful. Young people are more open to learning about other religions and debate on this subject.
Colombians are very conservative about homosexual issues, so it's not common to find a couple of men holding hands or kissing in the street. Young people are more open-minded, but don't expect too much.
Colombians use their hands to show the height of people and animals in a different way. Avoid using your hand with the palm facing down to describe the height of another person; it is used for animals and may be insulting. If you must describe the height of another person, use your hand with the palm facing inward.
When writing the name of the country do not spell it "Columbia". Everyone will spot the mispelling right away and will consider it a sign of disrespect. The Spanish (and English for that matter) name of the country is "Colombia".
Communicating
The Spanish language dialect that is spoken in Colombia is clear and understandable. The language does vary slightly from city to city, and generally, it is spoken faster in the coastal areas. *Note: in cities like Cali, the dialect of Spanish is the voseo form. Meaning that instead of the first person familiar pronoun tú, vos is used instead. Though tú is also understood by the people of Cali.
Many Colombians can speak some basic English phrases because they’ve learned some English in schools, and because Colombians view English films with Spanish sub-titles. More affluent Colombians, in order to learn English, will more than likely have lived in Canada, U.S., England, and quite likely Australia. Quite a few high-ranking government workers, executives, and professionals speak English to some degree.
Shopping
The textile industry of Colombia is reputable and well-recognized in Europe and throughout South America. Particularly, lingerie and clothing made in Colombia are accepted as being high in quality and quite affordable. The city of Medellin is one of the better places to purchase clothing and lingerie because its known as the fashion capital of Colombia.
The “mochila” is a hand-woven, traditional, and indigenous bag that is normally carried or slung over a shoulder. “Mochilas” are available in various sizes and generally sold in malls, specially in the El Rodadero/Santa Marta area. Colombian gold (18k) and emeralds can also be attractive to visitors. A common style of jewelry found in Colombia are replicas of pre-Colombian jewelry fabricated with silver, gold, and semi-precious stones. Intricately designed jewelry can be purchased at most markets, or from most street vendors. Street vendors also sell bracelets, jewelry, watches, necklaces, glasses, souvenirs, shorts, and t-shirts. Bartering with street vendors is like a ritual. A rule of thumb is 2,000 pesos. So for example, if a street vendor is selling some jewelry for P$10,000, offer P$8,000, and go from there. If you don't want to buy anything, simple say "Gracias," ("thank you") and a non-committal wave of your hand will deter would-be sellers.
Cuisine
Two very common dishes in many areas of Colombia are called arepas and buñuelos. Arepas are rather thick corn tortillas often made with cheese and served with butter. Buñuelos are deep fried balls with cheese in the dough. Another common dish, especially in Bogotá and the central region, are tamales. Tamales can be chopped pork or chicken with vegetables and eggs, rolled in maize, and steamed in banana leaves. Tamales are often served with home-made hot chocolate.
Empanadas, made with potato and meat with a pouch-like yellow exterior, are delicious and entirely different from their Mexican counterparts. Pastry is prevalent, both salty and sweet, including Pandebono, Pan de Yuca, Pastel Gloria, and Roscon. These vary in quality--ask the locals for the best places to enjoy.
Sancocho is another popular dish throughout Colombia, with countless regional varieties. Sancocho de gallina is made with rice chicken soup, served with part of the chicken, rice, vegetables and salad. Sancocho is usually made with fish on the coast(s), and it is highly recommended. Another popular soup, especially in Bogotá and surrounding area is called Ajiaco. Ajiaco is chicken soup with three different kinds of potatoes, vegetables, herbs, and usually served with rice, corn, avocado, milk cream and capers.
"Bandeja paisa" is common in most places, (the "paisas" are the natives from some departments in the North West, such as Antioiquia, Caldas, Risaralda and Quindio). This includes rice, beans, fried plantain, arepa, fried egg, chorizo, chicharrón (pork crackling) with the meat still attached. It's a very fatty dish, but you can leave what you don't like, and if you're lucky enough, you could find a gourmet bandeja paisa in a good restaurant in Bogotá or Medellin. They are lighter and smaller.
There are a few chains throughout the country. In addition to worldwide franchises (McDonald's, Subway, T.G.I.F., which are specially centered on Bogotá and other big cities), Colombian chains are very strong and located in almost every city. Presto and especially El Corral serve outstanding burgers, Kokoriko makes broiled chicken and Frisby specializes in broasted chicken. Crêpes and Waffles, as the name indicates, is an upscale breakfast/brunch restaurant with spectacular... crêpes, waffles and ice cream. There are many international restaurants, including rodizios (Brazilian steak house style), paella houses, etc.
There’s a great variety of tropical fruits, and corresponding juices, throughout Colombia. Examples of tropical fruits include: mangoes, tamarindo, lulo, guanabanas, mangostinos, and a great variety of citrus. The variety of fruits can also be found in prepared foods like ice cream and juices. Juices are inexpensive and natural everywhere. Most Colombians would be happy to teach you about their fruits and juices, how to find them, and how to prepare them for eating.
In Colombia there are a great variety of "tamales" if you like them, but be aware they are very different from their most famous Mexican cousins. They differ from region to region, but all of them are delicious. They are called "envuelto", the sweet tamale made of corn.
Colombians also like their coffees. There’s a lot of home-made and commercially-made products that are blended with any one or more of their coffees, including: wines, cookies, candies, milk-based desserts like “arequipe”, ice creams, etc.
Colombians are famous for having a sweet tooth, so you are going to find a lot of deserts and local candies like "bocadillo" made of guayaba (guava fruit), or the most famous milk-based "arequipe" (similar to its Argentinian cousin "dulce leche" or the french "confiteure du lait"). That just covers the basics, since every region in Colombia has its own fruits, local products, and therefore its own range of sweet products. If you are a lover of rare candies, you could get artisan-made candies in the little towns near Bogotá and Tunja.
Organic food is a current trend in big cities, but in little towns you can get fruits and veggies all very natural and fresh. Colombians aren't used to storing food for the winter, since there’s no winter in the traditional sense, except for the high mountains. So don't ask them for dried items like dried tomatos or fruits. All you have to do is go shopping at the little grocery stores nearby and pick up the freshest of the harvest of the month (almost everything is available and fresh all year). As for pickles and related preserved food, you can find them in supermarkets, but they are not common in family households.
Concerning potatoes, you must know the pre-Columbian civilizations had about 200 varieties of this plant. Colombia, as an Andean country, is not the exception. Even McDonalds recognized the quality of this product and buys them. But while you are there you don't want to go to McDonalds--you've got to try the local preparations like "salted potatos" (papas saladas) or "stewed potatos" (papas chorriadas).
All in all, in Colombia it can be fun to have the ingredients and the preparation of a lot of exotic recipes explained to you.
Beverages
Colombia offers an enormous variety of fruit and hence fruit juices. Do not miss them!
For breakfast, take a home-made hot chocolate. It is generally prepared with panela (dried cane juice), cinnamon and cloves, which gives it a special taste.
Colombia's national alcoholic beverage, Aguardiente, tastes strongly of anise, or licorice, and is typically bought by the bottle or half bottle. People usually drink it in shots. Each region has its own aguardiente, "Antioqueño" (from Antioquia), "Cristal" (from Caldas), "Quindiano" (from Quindio), "Blanco del Valle" (from Valle del Cauca) and "Nectar" (from Cundinamarca). There is also a variety of rum beverages, like "Ron Viejo Medellín" (from Antioquia) and "Ron Viejo Caldas" (from Caldas).
The water is drinkable right from the tap in most of the major cities, but be prepared to buy some bottles if you go to the countryside. Agua Manantial Bottled water is recommended, it comes from a natural spring near Bogotá. Be careful not to use ice cubes, or drink any beverage that might not contain distilled water. Ask if the beverage is made with tap or bottled/boiled water.
If you are lucky enough, and if you are staying in a familiar "finca cafetera" (coffee plantation) you can ask your colombian friends not for the selected export quality coffee but for the remaining coffee that the farmers have to their own use. This is manually picked, washed, toasted in rustic brick stoves and manually ground. It has the most exquisite and rare flavor and aroma you will ever find.
Commercially you can find a lot of products made out of coffee, like wines, ice-creams, soda-pops and other beverages.
Studying
The Colombian Spanish is considered by many around the world as the purest in Latin America and there are many universities and language schools that have language programs.
Colombia Education is generally strict and is kept to high standards. Most Colombian degrees can be legalized in foreign countries. You can find several programs in different universities around the country. You can also find programs with Language Institutes that could offer a variety of courses.
Work
Officially it is not legal to work in Colombia without a proper working visa. Visas can be obtained by employers on your behalf. If you want to work for a national company, such as Bancolombia/Conavi, Avianca, or Presto, you must be able to speak Spanish with near-native fluency. Depending on your qualifications, companies may offer Spanish lessons, however always make sure that you are indeed eligible for the position advertised. There is sufficient demand for you to teach English for extra money under the table, especially in smaller cities where the "English demand" is high. Also you could work for a NGO.
Colombia Travel
Safety, Security and Scams
Colombia has suffered from a terrible reputation as a dangerous and violent country. In the last few years safety has improved greatly. By South American standards Colombia is relatively safe as more and more visitors are discovering. Tourists won´t have any problems moving around in cities, but it pays to think safe, just as you would in any other large metropolitan city. To discover the countryside, ask somebody to stay with you.
Travellers should exercise vigilance at all times due to the level of violent crime. Kidnapping and homicide rates in Colombia remain high: about 45 kidnappings per month were reported in 2005. Outside the main tourist areas these dangers are greatly magnified. Areas to avoid include the Departments of Chocó, and Putumayo and anywhere east of the Andes.
Bogata also seems to be a hot bed of problems. The following was submitted by a reader of Lonely Planet:
Of course you have read that Bogotá is dangerous. So did I, and I was also arrogant enough to believe that I am an experienced and careful backpacker, who knows what to do. I thought I would deal with the dangers of this city as I have done during the last 12 years of regular backpacking, with the experience of four previous trips to Latin America and living half a year in Guatemala City (not the safest place on earth). Please note that Bogotá, Colombia for that matter, is a different story. Of course bad luck can hit you anywhere but the risk of something happening to you is really different in Colombia. Common sense like "beware of pick pocketing in busy areas, watch your bags like a hawk in terminals, don't wander off in quiet areas by yourself, keep a low profile or don't go out after dark" etc. etc. is not enough! Anywhere in the centre of Bogotá you can be robbed in broad daylight.
I was walking in a nice sunny street just a block from Avenida Jiminez. It was a national holiday so many people (families, couples) were walking around. People were standing and sitting in front of their houses and there were even two police officers 30 meters away. However, when they were called they refused to come while I was being stripped by eight boys with two knifes in my face. The robbers even take their time to check your underwear as nobody around them bothers them anyway.
This story does not stand by itself. The police station on the Avenida Jiminez on the way to Monte Serrate records about 150 robberies a day; many Colombians and about every foreigner that dares to stroll around the neighbourhood. What do you think of the nice square in front of the gold museum...yes people were violently robbed and beaten up there just a few weeks ago. We counted 4 violent robberies in these last 3 weeks in this hostel alone. Some things in Colombia are really great and some people are wonderful, as many travellers will testify, but yes, it is getting really bad.
Common smart travellers sense is not enough for Bogotá. Please believe that you are taking a different risk than most other countries. I am far from the only one that was surprised by the vicious criminals of this place. Nearly half of the people that I spoke to during my month in Colombia had been robbed. Nobody got hurt...but I was amazed.
Guerrillas
Colombia's ongoing civil war is over 40 years old, although it can still be noticed today. It is not accurate to say that it is over, as although an agreement with the government resulted in the disarmament of 80% of the paramilitaries in 2005, the FARC and ELN guerrillas are still fully operational. These guerrillas, however, operate mainly in the rural areas, and as long as you stay in any of the big cities, you will be safe from their operations. Police can be found everywhere nowadays, even outside of the city. River police, highway police, newspapers, and fellow travelers can be a useful source of information. (Note that the native pronuciation of guerrilla is "gair-EE-ya", not the English expression "guh-RILL-a".)
Crime
Major cities in Colombia have low crime rates, if you think the guy above was exaggerating, just take some usual precautions and you shall be fine. In the downtown areas of most cities it is quite rare to encounter any problems but it is very important to exercise caution in the less developed parts of the urban regions. If you want to take a taxi, ask for it using a phone service, it costs the same and your call will be answered rapidly. If you want to travel around the country you should research the areas your intend to visit, since some distant parts outside the cities are not recommended for tourists. If possible, speak to a trusted local or your hotel.
Drugs
Most of the cocaine consumed in the US and in Europe comes from Colombia, but local consumption is low, hence you will not be offered nor will you see any drugs there, unless you look for them.
Most Colombians are offended by jokes about drugs. Drugs and the mafia have given a bad image of the country, although the police and armed forces fight furiously to combat them. All Colombian governments have had strong commitments to fight drug production and trade. Current President Alvaro Uribe, with significant aid from the US government, has led in the last 4 years a policy of massively destroying drug plantations using chemical defoliants.
Local Health Conditions
Drink only bottled water outside the major cities. The water in major cities is safe. Anywhere else, never get drinks with ice cubes in them, and always make sure that the water you are served in restaurants comes from a bottle (they should open it in front of you). Doing anything else may result in you hugging the crapper for a few days.
If you're staying with relatives or friends especially, you could ask for boiled water since families are used to having it around.
In cities like Bogotá, Manizales or Medellin, the quality of the water is optimum. In Manizales for example, the water, besides being processed, comes from pristine natural sources near a nevado. In Bogotá, the water comes from the high mountains, 3,330 meters above sea level.
In the coastal cities you had better watch what you drink on the streets or at the beaches.
Altitude sickness
A sickness that may occur while traveling the mountainous regions of Colombia is called “altitude sickness”, or “acute mountain sickness” (AMS). Altitude sickness may occur by acute exposure to altitudes above 2,400 meters, or approximately 8,000 feet. People have differing susceptibilities to “altitude sickness”. Some otherwise healthy people can begin to exhibit the symptoms of “altitude sickness” at altitudes above 2,000 meters or 6,500 feet. The symptoms of “altitude sickness” include a headache with stomach sickness, dizziness, sleep disturbance, and fatigue. These symptoms are aggravated by exertion. The symptoms often start manifesting themselves after 6 to 10 hours of ascent, and the symptoms generally subside after 1 to 2 days. The symptoms can, however, develop into either “high altitude pulmonary edema” or HAPE; or “high altitude cerebral edema” or HACE. The best suggestion for initial “high altitude sickness” symptoms – before they get severe – are to descend, descend, and descend. For more information, go and visit www.high-altitude-medicine.com
Excellent safe travel advice
If you are new to travelling, or even if you have travelled the globe for years, I strongly recommend you check out the following link for some very interesting and informative reading about safe travelling in Colombia, and the Third World in general. It is an accumulation of original thoughts and experiences of several worldly travellers, just go to Safely Travel. It was written with the Third World in mind, where travelling disasters are around every corner, and a pre-emptor to what we may all expect someday in the First World as populations increase and desperate people become more brave and sophisticated in their survival techniques. It will make you aware of all sorts of scams, how to check into a hotel, advice for single lady travellers, advice for single men travellers, rip tides, credit card scams, driving in a foreign land, kidnapping, street people, you name it. It is an essential read for anyone travelling, and the most comprehensive discussion I know of!
Tourist Visa Requirements
Nationals of some countries, including most of Western Europe, the Americas, Japan, Australia and New Zealand, don't need a visa to enter Colombia. It's a good idea to check this before your planned trip, because visa regulations change frequently. All visitors get an entry stamp or print in their passport from DAS (the security police responsible for immigration) upon arrival at any international airport or land border crossing. The stamp says how many days you can stay in the country. The maximum allowed is 90 days, but DAS officials often stamp 60 or just 30 days. Make sure you get an entry stamp or you'll have troubles later. Official money changers and banks will want to see your entry stamp, as will police if there are any problems. When departing the country, if you don't have a stamp you'll also have to pay a fine (around 60.00) and get a salvoconducto from a DAS office. Similarly, make sure you have a departure stamp or there will be trouble the next time around.
You are entitled to a 30-day extension ($25), which can be obtained from DAS in any departmental capital. The new thrity days begins from the end of the visa already stamped in your passport (so there's no need to wait to the last minute). Most travellers apply for an extension in Bogotá.
Overview of getting there
Getting to Colombia is relatively easy because of its location on the northern part of South America. Of course, this depends on the method one chooses to get to Colombia. Colombia only has road connections with Ecuador and Venezuela. These two borders are the most popular and easiest border crossings. There are two border crossings to Venezuela: the Puerto Carreno-Puerto Paez crossing, and the Arauca-El Amparo de Apure border crossing. Consult with your embassy, or elsewhere, to first assess the security situation in taking either of these two border crossings. The Panamanian border stretches across an area known as the infamous Darien Gap. Crossing this border is basically out of the question because it’s a hostile area of jungle, swamps, and guerrilla fighters.
Arriving or departing Colombia by boat is also relatively easy because Colombia has coasts on both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Arriving and departing by boat on the Caribbean coast is easier in that it has several major busy ports, whereas the Pacific coast really only has the main port of Buenaventura. The main ports on the Caribbean side include: Cartagena, Santa Marta, Turbo, and Barranquilla. Sea traffic on the Caribbean side is very frequent because of boats coming and going from any one of these main ports to the Caribbean Islands, Venezuela, Central America, Mexico, USA, and Europe.
Colombia has good and relatively cheap air links to North America, Europe, Central America, the Caribbean, and the rest of South America. Most visitors to Colombia fly into one of several international airports in Colombia. The main international airport is of course in Bogotá. The other international airports include Medellin, Cartagena, Barranquilla, San Andres, and Cali. There’s an airport tax on international flights depending on the length of stay in Colombia. The airport tax for staying in Colombia less than 60 days is $30.00 US. The airport tax for staying longer than 60 days is $50 US.
Getting Around
First of all, there is no train service within Colombia.
Although getting around by car or motorcycle is an attractive and comfortable option, it can be expensive and dangerous. Theft is the main reason that traveling by either car or motorcycle can be dangerous.
Cycling around Colombia is basically very difficult unless you are a very good cyclist. Colombia has a very mountainous terrain. The Llanos are flat but with few roads. Cyclists should never assume that a driver will give you the right of way because road rules favor drivers. Cyclists end up fighting traffic on main roadways. However, most roads are paved, and security in the country is slowly improving. On the plus side, most small towns have a bike repair shop where you can get your bike fixed cheaply, easily, and quickly. Bike rentals are not common.
Water transportation is primitive and irregular. This is especially true along the pacific coast where there are no roads.
Buses are the main method of getting around Colombia. Buses are efficient, cheap, and bus routes are extensive. However, except for the main routes in the country, the roads throughout Colombia often defy description because of the mountainous terrain. Getting around the main cities by bus can be slow, and the buses are usually crowded. Getting around in taxis is an excellent value because they are quite affordable, and numerous. Taxis can even be chartered for long distance travel as well. There are two other kinds of buses in Colombia: chivas and collectivos. Chivas are like an old-style wooden bus that are primarily used on outback roads. Collectivos are like a cross between a bus and a taxi that run along fixed routes.
Larger Colombian cities offer other attractive methods of getting around. Bogotá has a fast urban bus service that acts like an above-ground subway that is called TranMilenio. And Medellin has a high-speed metro system. The first airline in South America, and in Colombia, was founded in 1919 and was called SCADTA. SCADTA later became Avianca. Avianca is Colombia’s main or flagship airline, and it partners with SAM. Colombia has a well-developed airline system that is one of the densest networks in Latin America. The second largest airline in Colombia is AeroRepublica. Aires and Satena are other airlines in Colombia. Although airfares are relatively high, some of the new airlines offer promotions that can be ridiculously cheap, depending on where one is flying into. Always remember to re-confirm reservations at least 72 hours in advance; be prepared for either postponed flights, or re-scheduled flights; and don’t forget that there’s an airport tax on domestic flights of around $4.
Colombian accommodations In Colombia you can find a range of options, bed and breakfast conditioned to western standards and hostels to five-star hotels.
Archaeology and other aeas of touristic interest
San Augustín Archaeological Park (Arqueologico De San Agustin)
This is a pre-Columbian ceremonial centre and the largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America, all in a wild, spectacular landscape of lush mountains, valleys and rolling hills bordering the Magadalena River. San Augustín is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures on the continent.
San Augustin Park is located in the southwest of the Republic of Colombia, in the foothills of the Colombian Massif of the southern part of in the Department of Huila. The district of Isnos in the north, the Department of Cauca to the west and south and the district of Pitalito in the east all border this Park. At 1700m above sea level, it has an average annual temperature of 19°C with a climatic diversity ranging from the warm temperatures of the low valleys to the cold of the moors. It covers an area of 1310 Km² including the districts of Isnos, Salado Blanco and San Agustín. The area of this park was inhabited thousands of years ago by the advanced Agustinian culture whose origin and cause of their extinction remain unknown. Archeological and scientific studies using carbon 14 dating show that the cultural communities just mentioned existed between 3300 B.C. until the tenth century A.D.
Many of its archeological relics have been recovered, including sculptures, sarcophaguses, and monoliths, and there are many tombs. A great variety of pottery items have been found including pots, jars, plates, trays, goldsmith works and grindstones carved into the appropriate shape. Smaller stones were used to grind different kinds of grains, roots, tree barks and spices.
There are four sites of interest: La Fuente de Lavapatas (Lavapatas Ceremonial Water Spring), El Alto de lavapatas (Lavapatas Hill), El Alto de los Idolos (Idol’s Hill), El Bosque de las Estatuas (Statues Forest). There is also an archaeological museum. All signs indicate that, at a certain point in the Indians’ history, the ancient Agustinian communities developed a strong burial culture. It is at this time that many artificial mounds were constructed, and this is also the age in which their cultural art flourished, converting the whole area into a ceremonial center with great regional influence.
There are several ancient domestic sites called 'mesitas' from which land had been removed to make mounds for different purposes. At these sites, numerous stone-carved monuments resembling human and zoomorphic figures and temples can be found. Ranging in height from twenty centimetres to seven metres, the sculptures depict a variety of
In the Fuente Lavapatas there are several figures carved to resemble lizards, serpents and salamanders with human figures. Everything indicates that this was a sacred place used for religious rituals. It is said the people who visit La Fuente Lavapatas feel a wonderful sensation of peace and joyfulness.
At the summit of Alto de Lavapatas the most ancient archeological monuments indicate they were built as long as 26 centuries ago. Here there are very unusual sites such as a children’s cemetery protected by a beautifully carved large double statue. El Alto de los Ídolos is perhaps one of the most interesting places where funeral customs that best represent the culture were found. Here we can see simple tombs carved vertically into the land, which have lateral chambers and there are other tombs horizontally built whose walls are covered with decorated stone slabs.
Parque Arqueologico De Tierradentro
Long ago when the Spanish Conquerors tried to reach this area, they saw how difficult it was to walk through the hills and climb them in order to access it so they called it Tierradentro (Land Within. This is a very important archaeological site, “the land deep inside” as Alvaro Chávez called it, because of its difficult access and its broken topography giving the sensation of being locked in by mountains. It is situated in the east of the Department of Cauca in the district of Inzá and Páez 113Km from Popayán. It features badly broken terrain through which several small rivers flow pouring their waters into the main watercourse of Páez River. Tierradentro is located between Puracé Volcano and the snowy peaks of El Nevado del Huila. Temperature ranges from the warm weather of the foothills to the cold temperatures of the moors. It averages 5800 feet above sea level.
Visitors may arrive at Tierradentro by roads from Neiva, Cali or Popayán. The most interesting sites to visit are located near the districts of Inzá, San Francisco and San Andrés. Small cemeteries have been found near the Indian towns of Calderas, Lame, Tubichucue, Suin, Chinas and Tálaga, among others. In the valleys near the town of San Adrés de Pisimbalá, the largest necropolises of Tierradentro can be found, constituted by Loma de Segovia, Alto del Duende, Alto de San Andrés and Loma del Aguacate.
There are two museums, one explaining prehistoric human habitation in this region, the other exhibiting cultural aspects of today’s inhabitants, the Paez Indians. This includes pottery, statues and other cultural and valuable artifacts of this culture. Archaeologists have found interesting things during their excavations. They discovered the existence of domestic and ceremonial pottery items. The domestic implements are of a regular shape, monochromatic and fairly simple. Many of them are tripod vessels that used to be placed over the fire. Some others are decorated with showy geometrical, human and animal figures and painted with vegetable-based colors. The vessels found inside the rock carved vaults are more elaborate and feature significantly more decoration. There is still more to be discovered about the social, historical, religious and political development of this culture. Scientists and archaeologists using radiocarbon dating have determined that this culture appeared?? between 630 and 850 AD.
Hypogeums depositories were built to contain the human bones of the dead. These structures are unique in their kind in Latin America because of the surprising fineness of their painted decorations. They can be found grouped in different sites along the hillside and around the drainage areas of the San Andrés River. By comparing architectonic styles of neighboring cultures, it has been possible to determine the time of the classic period of Tierradentro culture to be around the 5th century AD when the building of hypogeums reached its greatest perfection.
The Archaeological and Ethnographic Museum contains ceramics and stone figures and other instruments found during excavations carried out at different sites of the area. Here you can see clothing, home utensils and musical instruments, all of which were used by the natives in their ritual and daily life.
From the entrance by the museums there are two walks. One will lead to Sergovia a extensive site with the best preserved burrial chambers and the only ones with light. Further up is the site El Duende with some more burrial chambers.
Alto de Segovia is located at 1650 m. above sea level and fifteen minutes from the main road. The only way to access this site is on horseback or on foot. This is an extremely important site in the area because there are thirty tombs or hypogeums of different sizes, which are decorated with red, white and black geometrical human and zoomorphic figures. This is the only site with light for night visitations.
Alto del Duende is located at 1700 m. above sea level. It has seven well-conserved tombs where the best pictorial art can be seen. Alto del Tablón: This place is 1600m above sea level. The area contains eight statues similar to those of San Agustín that testify the relation existing between these two cultures at some time in the past.
Alto de San Andrés has eight hypogeums located in front of San Andrés town. Close to San Andres is El Tablon with statues simular to San Agustín.
The other walk will lead up to Aguacatal on the summit of the mountain with a wonderful view of the surrounding landscape. This site boasts six hypogeums featuring beautifully decorated chambers. An indigenous Catholic Church, symbol of the region, is found here. San Agustín and this zone together constitute a cultural heritage for humanity because they are unique in their class. They are a testimony of an ancient past that should be admired and conserved as a treasure.
Stay at Hotel Refugio de Pilimbalá Telephone: (57) 2-8222251 (Popayán). It is also possible to lodge in family-type houses.
To get there, San Andres de Pisimbala or simply San Andres is the tiny hamlet where most people stay. From Popayan several buses a day make the 5 hour ride to Tierradentro. Some will drop you off at a place called El Cruz. From there it's a two kilometre walk to San Andres. If you come from San Agustín, you first have to go to Pitalito to get a bus to La Plata which leaves at 6am and 10am. From there you can take bus to San Andres at 4pm.
Zona Cafetera
This is the coffee region (Risaralda, Caldas, Quindio) usually refered to as "Eje Cafetero", a coffee-growing region in the Andean Highlands of Colombia. El Parque del Cafe is a must if you're in the area. The colonisation and history of the entire area is explained as well as all the details of growing and processing coffee. In addition it features a botanical area (bamboo forest, coffee plants, etc) and an amusement park like Disneyland. At Los Nevados, close to Manizales, you can touch snow or if you want, you can climb an altitude of 5000 m by car.
Dosquebradas is the second largest city in the Risaralda Department. Dosquebradas gets its name from its two rivers: Santa Teresita and Las Garzas. Dosquebradas is also sometimes called la Zona Rosa de Pereira or Pink Zone of Pereira because it has many pubs and discos, which are filled with young people on weekends. As of 2005, Dosquebradas had a population of approximately 200,000 people. The city is connected by the Cesar Trujillo Viaduct to the capital of the Risaralda Department, Pereira.
Parque Nacional Natural Isla Gorgona
Isla Gorgona is a former prison island 30 kilometers out into the Pacific Ocean. It is now a nature reserve open to visitors. Some of the prisons have been converted into a research centre, accommodations, and a restaurant. The rest of the Island is overgrown with tropical jungle famous for its poisonous snakes. The rest of the inhabitants of Isla Gorgona include endemic lizards, blue footed boobies, monkeys, frigate birds, pelicans and more. The ocean around Isla Gorgona has its share of whales, white tip sharks, and whale sharks just to name a few. The whale season is from mid-June until November. Male humpback whales can be seen breaching. Female humpback whales and their offspring can be seen close to the island when they surface to breathe. Diving conditions can be excellent.
Colombia hotels
As mentioned above, the following Colombia hotels had to qualify to be listed here. They must be independently owned and operated, meet minimum eco-friendly requirements, rise to the top after a series of former guest reviews, and their average nightly double occupancy room rate must be less than US$150 per night.
Click on any hotel website we provide, and talk to a real person. Avoid misunderstandings caused by a middleman. Before you make your reservation, you can request a multi-night or multi-room, child or senior discount; a quiet room, or a top floor room, or a room with a view; or if you wish to be accommodated close to the pool; if you want extra blankets, towels or pillows; or have them recommend and book a tour or car for you in advance; you can request a romantic bouquet of exotic flowers with a note attached waiting in your room, or a chilled bottle of champagne; or ask questions about the surrounding area, dining, nightlife, laundry services or luggage storage, or a possible early check-in or late check-out. Play one hotel against the other. You can't do any of this when you book through a middleman, and without the middleman's whopping 20% to 40% commission to pay, a hotel has far more flexibility in satisfying your requests! AdventureHotels.travel makes no commission from any reservation, and only charges a small annual fee to list the hotel on our websites.
It costs you nothing to enjoy the fruits of our labor, and the savings and advantages are up to you when you deal directly with the hotel!
Our most qualified Colombia hotels under $150 (in order by location)
Bogotá
The capital, founded in 1538, is the largest city and situated almost in the center of the country at an altitude of 2600m (8600ft). Bogotá reflects a blend of terrestrial tradition and Spanish colonial influences. It is the quintessence of all things Colombian: a city of futuristic architecture, a vibrant and diverse cultural and intellectual life, splendid colonial churches and brilliant museums. It is also a city of beggars, shantytowns, drug dealers and traffic jams. Many historical landmarks have been preserved, such as the Capitol Municipal Palace and the cathedral, the Capilla del Sangrario, on the main square, the Plaza Bolivar. Bogotá also contains the Gold Museum, with its unique collection of over 100,000 pre-Colombian artworks.
Bogota is the capital of the Republic of Colombia, and one of the most modern metropolitan cities of Latin America.
Bogota is basically divided into four sections:
• El Sud or the south section of the city is mainly the poor section of the city.
• El Centro or the center of the city is where the main financial headquarters are established.
• El Occidente or the west section of the city is where the main middle and some upper class residents live.
• El Norte or the north section is where most of the affluent residents live, and where one can find upscale boutiques, nightclubs, many multi-national headquarters, and cafes.
As with most capital cities, Bogota is the main place to conduct official business dealings with either the Government, or with multinational companies, or with internationally recognized universities. Getting orientated in Bogota is relatively easy because the mountains of the Andean Highlands are to the East and are generally visible from most parts of the city.
Things to See
To get a great overview of the city, you should visit either Torre de Colpatria or Monserrate:
• Torre de Colpatria is located in El Centro or in the Center of the city. It is the tallest building in Bogota, and one of the tallest buildings in all of South America. Visit the top of the building on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday, and get a good overview of Bogota. • Cerro de Monserrate is one two mountains on the east side of Bogota. The other mountain is called Cerro de Guadalupe. It is easy to distinguish the two because there’s a church at the top of Cerro de Monserrate. There are basically three ways to get to the top of Cerro de Monserrate: cable car, funicular, or by foot. Climbing up to Cerro de Monserrate by foot is not really recommended because of safety issues – Sundays are best to go up by foot, if you really want to climb up to the top. The cable car goes through a 750 foot tunnel. The cost for a round trip on either the cable car or funicular is approximately 12,000 pesos. There’s lots to see and do at the top of Cerro de Monserrate. Some of the neighborhoods to try and locate from the top of either El Torre de Colpatria, or Cerro de Monserrate include:
• La Candelaria is the historical neighborhood of Bogotá. • La Macarena is the artistic or “bohemian” neighborhood with cafes, art galleries, etc. • Parque de la 93 is a trendy neighborhood with cafes and nightclubs that are frequently visited by “jet set” people. El Salto del Angel, or the salt of the angel, is a highly recommended restaurant. • El Salitre is a middle to upper class neighborhood where the Maloka science museum is located. The Maloka science museum is one of the only science museums built in South America.
Some other museums to visit while in Bogotá include:
• Museo de Botero displays a collection of paintings donated by Botero to the city of Bogotá. The museum also displays works by Dali, Monet, Renoir, and Picasso. Entrance to the museum is free. The address of the Museo Botero is Calle 11 #4-41. Its open from 10 am to 8 pm on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. Its open from 10 am to 7 pm on Saturday; and its open from 10 am to 4 pm on Sunday. • Next to the Museo de Botero is La Casa de Moneda, or house of money. La Casa de Moneda displays a collection of Colombian coins, and provides a history of moneymaking. • El Museo de Oro, or Museum of Gold, displays an impressive collection of gold in pre-colombian artifacts. Entrance to the museum is free on Sunday. The address for the museum is Calle 16 #15-41. It is open from 9 am to 7 pm on Tuesdays to Saturdays from 9 am to 7 pm.
Hacienda Santa Barbara is a 19th century house that used to belong to Pepe Sierra. Pepe Sierra used to be one of Colombia’s wealthiest people at that time. It became a mall in the late 1980’s. It is famous for its cafes, and it is not as crowded as other malls. La Zona T is a chic area that is surrounded by upscale malls. The upscale malls include Atlantis Plaza, Centro Andino, and El Retiro. El Retiro houses various upscale boutiques such as Louis Vuitton, Lacoste, Bally, Versace, and many more. Unicentro is a very modern mall that has many western retailers.
Things to do
- Iberoamerican Theater Festival, the biggest theater festival in the world (occurs every two years in April).
- Take a cab or Transmilenio to a working class neighborhood in the Southside (ask someone at the front desk where to go, most likely they live in El Sur themselves and can tell you a good place to go. Sit down in a 'panaderia' (bakery) order a colombiana (soda) and some good bread... and breathe the environment of the regular Colombian...don't narrow yourself to the upscale Norte.
Nightclubs and other cool spots
CHA-CHA: One of the most exlusive night clubs, located on the 7th avenue with 33rd Street, on the 41st floor of what once was The Hilton Hotel, today just an abandoned building. It is located in the "Ball Room" of the old hotel, and keeps the traditional elegant decor. Crystal chandelliers meet electronic music, frequently visited by world famous DJ´s. Cover:$15.000.
Salto del Angel: One of the coolest spots in Bogota, located in the Park at 93rd Street, it is the place to see all the futbol matches with your buddies, beers and good food on Sundays. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, it is the place to see all the beautiful people dancing salsa and vallenato music on the tables. Great environment!
Lola: Located on 15 Avenue and 92nd Street. Frequented mostly by students and people looking to have fun, on a well-located spot for lower prices than those found on the "Zona T" or the Park on 93rd St. Cover: $10.000.
Kukaramakara: Located on 15 Avenue and 93rd Street (near Lola) - the environment and decoration of this place has the perfect combination of modern club elements and a traditional artesanal environment from Colombia´s ancesters. It also features a local band every Friday and Saturday night that performs Latinamerican music. Cover: $15.000.
Gnoveva: very cheap..lower prices, and with the music and people, it is great, no cover and a bottle of aguardiente is $35.000 pesos.
Other local nightclubs where most North residents visit include Danzatoria, Gavanna, Amatista, Velvet, Salome Pagana – a salsa dancing club, Barbarosa, or Nabu. Most of these nightclubs are located in Bogota’s “Zona Rosa”, a trendy section of Bogota.
Other Spots
Bogota Beer Company: Bogota´s very own brewery! You can find one in almost every corner! Some of the locations are: Parque de Usaquén, Park at 93rd Street, Zona T (In front of the Andino Mall) and 122 Street with 19th Avenue. Try the "Jirafa" (giraffe) which is a yard long glass full of the beer of your choice, also recommended, the "Campín Calamari" and the "Cedritos Chips" ( all dishes are named after Bogota´s most famous neighborhoods).
Learn
Bogota has numerous educational institutions. Some of the better known universities include: National University (www.unal.edu.co), Universidad de America (www.uamerica.edu.co), Los Andes University (www.uniandes.edu.co), Pontificia Universidad Javeriana (www.javeriana.edu.co) and Externado (www.uexternado.edu.co) however there are many privately and publicly funded universities.
Best buys
Inexpensive handicrafts and jewelry from vendors Coffee-based products Leather handbags, shoes, and wallets. Uncut and cut emeralds brought in from the world's best emerald mines Inexpensive silver jewelry Dress suits and shoes Upscale Shopping Malls Unicentro, Centro Andino , El Retiro, Atlantis Plaza, Hacienda Santa Barbara, Santa Ana, Palatino, Portal de la 80, Salitre Plaza, Santa Fé
More Affordable Shopping Malls
Plaza de las Americas - outdoor, Ciudad Tunal, but if you use common sense, shopping in the streets of El Restrepo is definitely worth the experience.
Beverages
Coffee-based drinks are excellent. In Bogota hot chocolate (with local cheese) is preferred for breakfasts. Escobar in La Candelaria is popular with students on Thursday night. Cheap, good quality cocktails (the best Martini in Bogotá). Aguardiente is a must for all tourists. It can be found at all cafes and bars Mora:Mora located right next to platypus is an amazing juice bar where you can have breakfast, coffee, hot chocolate and enjoy some exotic tropical juices. Juan Valdéz is a chain of coffee shops, similar to Starbucks, located throughout the city, e.g. on the fourth floor of Centro Comercial Andino as well as many other locations around Bogota, Columbia, USA and the world.
Getting around in Bogota
Getting orientated in Bogota is relatively easy because the mountains of the Andean Highlands are to the East and are generally visible from most parts of the city. The city is mostly built on a grid system:
• Carreras or streets run parallel to the mountains from North to South and are abbreviated as Cr, K, or Crs.
• Calles cross the carreras, run from East to West, and are abbreviated as C, Cll, or Cl.
• Avenidas or avenues are usually large main thoroughfares, and are abbreviated as Av.
A numerical addressing system is mainly used throughout the city, where each address consists of a series of numbers. So, for example, the address Calle 16 # 2-43 indicates that the building on Calle 16 is 43 meters from the corner of Carrera 2 towards Carrera 3. The numerical system may also be used for the Avenidas as well but some have names that are commonly such as Avenida Jimenez.
By taxi
Taxi cabs are plentiful, affordable, can be flagged down anywhere in the city, and can be called by phone at no extra charge. For security reasons, be sure to order taxis by telephone and only catch them in the street if you are in a group.
By bus
Bogota’s new Transmileneo rapid bus service is expansive, extremely affordable, clean, efficient, and carries commuters to numerous corners of the city. However, the Transmileneo has not yet reached some main routes. Privately owned buses are the principal form of transportation for most workers and students, cruise the main thoroughfares and many side streets, and follow specific routes. Signs in their large front windows list destinations, either main street names or names of neighborhoods. However, there are no bus stops for these buses. They are called or flagged just like a taxi, and they will stop where the person(s) are standing. To exit these buses, go to the back door and either push a button on one of the hand rails or next to the exit; or simply call out either “Aqui, por favor!” which means “here please”, or “Pare!” which means “stop!”.
Sometimes, vendors are allowed on the buses to sell candy or small gift items; or, entertainers such as singers or guitar players are allowed on the bus; or, the more creative street beggars will get on the bus to tell you a long, poetic story of their sad situation before asking for a donation. A recent Grammy-nominated singer got her start performing on buses around Bogota. Her name is Llona. The cost for riding on private buses can range between 900 to 1200 pesos – subject to change of course.
By 'colectivo'
Colectivos are small buses that cover almost every major route in the city. They can also be called or flagged down like a taxi. The destinations of a colectivo are displayed on their windshield. They are not very comfortable, but they are cheap, and they can take you almost anywhere in the city.
By bicycle
Riding a bike on Bogota’s Ciclo-Ruta is a healthy and exciting way to get to know the city. The rules for riding a bike: a helmet and a reflective vest must be worn, and the bicycle must have reflectors on the wheel(s) and the back of the bike.
Trips outside of town
Catedral de la Sal is an impressive Cathedral hewn out of a salt mine in Zipaquira, about 50 kilometers south of Bogota, and capable of accommodating 8400 people. A visit is by guided tour. The entrance fee is COP$12,000 or half that when you buy your ticket on Wednesdays. To get there take the Transmilenio to Portal del Norte, from there take a bus to Zipaquira and ask the bus driver for directions to the cathedral. The total journey takes about 1 hour. Andrés Carne de Res is one the best "rumbiaderos" (nightclubs). It is located in Chia, about 15 mins north of Bogotá.
Guatavita, a two-hour bus drive from Bogotá, is best known for its Laguna de Guatavita, the ritual center and sacred lake of the Muisca Indians.
Boyacá has a cold climate in high-altitude mountains close to Bogotá by road, and is one of the few departments completely safe for tourists. Highlights include Villa de Leyva, a charming old colonial city that is calm and tranquil on weekdays, but it gets flooded by tourists from Bogotá on the weekends. Villa de Leyva is one of the few towns in Colombia that conserved all its colonial architecture. It is located 150 km north from Bogota and has a nice dry, pleasant climate, though it often gets windy and cold in the evenings.
- Near Boyaca, you can visit the Natural Sanctuary of Iguaque (Santuario de Flora y Fauna Iguaque)- a natural sanctuary which is home to Laguna Iguaque and several other lagunas at an altitude of 3600m. Buses drop you off about 3km from the entrance. From there to Laguna Iguaque and back takes about 7 hours. At the entrance there is a hotel, camping area and restaurant. Bring warm clothes. Open: 8am-6pm. Entrance COP$20.000. and the small 1658 hotel at Hacienda Baza, in Tibaná.
- Also outside of Villa de Leyva is El Fosíl, a nearly complete fosil of a chronosaur. It is about 5.5km on the road to Santa Sofía. Open: Mo-Su 7am-6pm. Entrance COP$2.500.
- El Infernieto -- A Muisca Indian astronomy observatory and a collection giant fallus statues. About 7.5 kilometres down the road to Santa Sofía. Entrance COP$3.000
- Pinturas & petroglifos -- Rock paintings and petrogliphes. Around 10km down the road to Santa Sofía. The site is hard to find on your own so ask or get a guide.
Bogota hotels
- Hotel de la Opera - After a careful restoration plan emerges the architectonical project of these two renowned old big central houses, whose historical richness is unthinkable. They belonged to one of the first Spanish owners of country farms at the colonial days and after independence they were the settlement of Libertador Simon Bolivar’s personal guard.
- La Cosona del Patio Amarillo - Recently renovated, a perfect location in northern Bogota. Low prices, yet quality accommodatuions, and lots of things to do in the area.
- Hotel Santa Monica - Great location in that it is central to everything, yet in a quiet, uncongested area of town.
- Hotel Humboldt - A new hotel in the newest part of the city, not far from downtown, neat and clean, good international-style restaurant.
- Bacata Hotel - is located strategically, close to Governmental facilities, Touristic landmarks, and a great Cultural zone in Bogotá. We are also close to the Airport, Corferias, Convention Center Gonzalo Jimenez, The United States embassy, Cundinamarca Government Building,Ministries, Important Universities, Museums, Planetary, Theatres and Churches, Interactive Center Maloka and World Park Ventures. Our guests can park their vehicles in our very own secured private parking lot.
- Hotel Cosmos 100 - the hotel offers 210 quiet and comfortable rooms in two towers with generous spaces and a wide variety of services. Our clients can use the swimming pool and sauna or train in the gym while enjoying a panoramic view of the city or taking a relaxing massage therapy at the Violeta Spa with all the attentions of our hotel. Two masters on physical activities give permanent advice about the machines in the gym, the swimming pool or answer any questions that may arise.
Medellin
Medellin used to be known as a city with one of the highest crime rates in the world, a major drug center, and the realm of Pablo Escobar – a world-renowned drug lord during the 1980’s and early 1990’s. On December 2, 1993, Pablo Escobar was found by a Colombian electronic surveillance team hiding in a middle-class barrio in Medellin, and subsequently killed during a prolonged gunfight. In 1991, Medellín had over 6,300 murders, and according to Newsweek, "the annual murder rate was 381 per 100,000 people--more than 500 homicides a month. In 2002, it was still 184 per 100,000. Last year (2006), it fell below 30, making Washington, D.C., look bad in comparison.”
Medellin is now better known for beautiful women, parks, cultural life, night life, textiles, markets, and coffee. Medellin also has one of the most vibrant economies in Colombia. As in most large cities, most of the action in Medellin is found in the City’s center. Well-protected suburbs of Medellin, where the wealthier residents live include El Poblado, Laureles, and Envigado. The Prado neighbourhood, closer to the city center, has many huge beautiful old houses that are worth a look because it used to be where the wealthier residents lived
Getting there
Medellin boasts an international airport (Jose Maria Cordoba International Airport), one local airport (Olaya Herrera), two bus terminals (north and south), an excellent Metro System, The Metroplus or bus extension to the Metro, the Metrocable or sky train, and taxis.
Getting around
Travelling through the city is quick and easy with the Metro System. You can go to anywhere in the city with The Metroplús or bus extension to the Metro, and the Metrocable, a sky train that has revolutionised transport in the city. All taxis have meters, so make sure that they use them.
What to see
Some of the beautiful parks to visit in and around Medellin include El Parque de los Deseos or Dream Park near Antioquia’s University and the planetarium; El Parque Periodista and Parque Bolivar are in heart of the city; Boston Park leads to the main promenade called La Playa; Parque de Los Pies Descalzos; and Parque Cisneros (o de la luz). The Metropolitan Cathedral is located along Parque Bolivar. Most parks have a very active cultural life.
Some museums to visit in Medellin include Museo de Antioquia which displays a collection of contemporary art and holds many of the paintings of Fernando Botero; Museo Universidad de Antioquia; Museo Interactivo EPM, Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellin, Casa Museo Fernando Gonzalez (Envigado); museo Pedro Nel Gomez, and the Museo Etnologico. Some theatres to visit in Medellin include the Metropolitan Theatre and Pablo Tobon Theatre which offer popular concerts, theatre, opera, and international events; Oficina Central de los Suenos; Matacandelas; Pequeno Teatro; Horas 25; and Teatro Popular de Medellin.
The International Poetry Festival of Medellin for Peace of Colombia in July is one of the most important poetry festivals in the world that draws poets from all over the world, including Nobel Prize winners. Their website is at Festival de Poesiade Medellin (http://www.festivaldepoesiademedellin.org/pub.php/en/Intro/index.htm)
A very popular local festival called the “Feria de las Flores” (Flower festival) takes place during a week in early August that includes the “Desfile de Silleteros” or parade of flower carriers.
Another very popular event is called “Los Alumbrados” which is basically Christmas lights decorating Medellin. The lights are up in early December until early January. Los Alumbrados makes Medellin one of the most beautiful Latin American cities in December. Large statues of Christmas lights can be found throughout Medellin.
Things to do
Purchase a Turibus day pass to get a general view and orientation of the city. You can pick it up at the main tourist places. The buses run every 30 minutes, so you can get off at one specific destination, enjoy the place, and take the next bus to your next local destination.
Take the Metrocable up to Santo Domingo for a nice view of the city. There’s lots of little stands set up, and vendors selling empanadas and all kinds of food, beer, and tourist wares. Or go visit Pueblito Paisa at the top of El Cerro Nutibara for another view over the city. It’s a reconstruction of an Antioquia village.
Things to buy
After the sight-seeing, dining, partying, it’s time to buy some stuff to take back home to family and friends. Some items to consider buying include:
• Coffee. Medellin is only a few hours from the coffee growing centers of Colombia. There are all kinds of flavors that one can imagine.
• Ron de Medellin or local rum!
• Aguardiente Antioqueno is like a black licorice flavored schnaps.
• Clothing. Although Medellin claims to be the fabric capital of Colombia, it is not a shopper’s paradise for clothes. Women’s clothes in Medellin are very revealing and sexy because Medellin women like to flaunt themselves.
Eating
There’s a large variety of restaurants throughout Medellin. Of special note is the “Zona Rosa”, or social zone, where you can find just about any kind of good quality food at a reasonable price. “Zona Rosa” is located in Poblado between Parque Poblado and Parque Lleras.
Colombian cuisine is basically similar to cuisine in other Central and Latin American countries. As such, typical dishes are called “comida criolla”. Some examples of comida criolla include: chicken soup or “sancocho de gallina”; ground beef or “carne en polvo”; fresh corn tortillas or “arepas de choclo”; meat-filled turnovers or “empanadas”; hot sauce or “aji”; Bogota’s chicken and potato soup or “ajiaco”; fried cheese puffs or “bunuelos”; fried puff squares or “hojuelas”; bun made with lard or “mantecada”; yucca bread or ‘pan de yuca”; flank steak or “sobrebarriga”; and rice with coconut.
Colombian fruits are basically similar to fruits found in other Latin American countries, including: lulo, feijo, granadilla, tomate de arbol, borojo, tamarindo, mamey, mamoncillo, maracuya, uchuva, and zapote.
Of special note is a treat called “Tipico Antioqueno”. It will leave anyone full, and includes: small flatbreads with cheese on top or “arepa con queso”; chicken; beans; eggs; rice; salted meat or “chicharron”; deep-fried plantain pancakes or “patacon”.
You have to go to Los Verdes de la 80, they have the best burgers, salchipapas, hot dogs, etc... ask any taxi driver and they will know exactly where to take you … believe me, you will not regret it!!! Delicious...
Partying
Most bars and clubs close at 3 am. However, there are places open until 6 or 7 am outside of the city limits. People also gather around Parque Poblado until early dawn drinking, talking, and smoking. There are street vendors selling alcohol, cigarettes, and anything else you could wish for. The area around “La Zona Rosa” and Parque Lleras is full of restaurants and bars and a must visit for those looking for some nightlife. It’s an area that is great for people watching. Parque Lleras is great any night of the week. However, the best nights to party in Medellin are Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.
Some of the popular places to visit for nightlife include:
• Mangos is the most famous of the clubs. It has a reputation of being patronized by rich mafia-related Colombians, and it is also usually full of hot women. Be careful.
• El Blue is a popular place with gringos and “gringo hunters”. Plays cross-over music or a mix of local music and rock music.
• Republica is across from El Blue. Plays local music and electronic music.
• B-Lounge plays electronic disco music and is patronized by rich, beautiful women.
• Palmaia is the biggest (capacity of 3,000 people) and arguably the best club. It has a boxing ring for girl fights.
• Universal rivals Mangos for size and popularity but has a younger clientele.
• Es La Bon is located in the center of the city so be careful. It’s a great place to either watch or dance salsa.
• There’s Ladies Night on Thursday nights at La Kasa.
• Circus is very popular with the beautiful in-crowd that normally plays cross-over music.
There are many places just outside Medellin in a place called Sabatena. A very unique, interesting, unusual, and fun bar/art-museum is called Vinacure in Caldas.
Accommodations
- Park 10 Hotel - In the traditional, elegant section of Medellin, close to banks, clubs, boutiques, it is an all-suite hotel with A/C, 24 hour room service, and it is extremely nice for the money.
- Hotel Nutibara - A redesigned hotel in ther Central Cultural of Medellin district, 137 quietr, comfortable rooms at a great price.
- Hotel Porton de Medellin - Very deluxe hotel at a surprisingly low rate.
- Los Lomas Hotel - Welcome to Las Lomas Hotel, ideally located just three minutes drive from Jose Maria Cordova International Airport and 35 minutes away from Medellin, in the most stunning region of the Oriente Antioqueño, amidst lush flower gardens, enjoying an excellent climate between 18 and 24 centigrades (64.40 and 78.80 Fahrenheit), offering comfort, international cuisine, attractions and facilities of a five star hotel, thus becoming a magnificent venue for pleasure, business and meetings.
- Hotel Casa Laureles - near the center of commerce, fully equipped rooms, very classy.
Stay safe
Staying safe in Medellin comes down to common sense.
Women shouldn't travel alone after dark; if you must, travel with a few friends. As Colombia is still a country with a "macho man" mindset, women might be the subject of lewd comments, cat-calling, or whistling. Women shouldn't take this personally - although women have the same rights as women in the US and elsewhere, it's just the culture.
Do not, under any circumstances, make any jokes about the use of cocaine or bombs. The Colombian police take jokes as threats, and you may find yourself in a police station explaining yourself to unsympathetic police officers. Under normal circumstances, police officers are usually kind and helpful towards tourists.
The age of majority in Colombia is 18. Minors are not allowed to be in possession of alcohol at any time, and they may not enter night clubs of any kind. If a minor is found to be in a night club, the entire club will be immediately closed for violating a national law.
Always change your money at a bank (Conavi or Bancolombia are the two national banks) or at "Moneygramm". Street changers offer tempting rates for your dollar, but be on guard. Street changers palm several of the biggest bills for themselves. Do not flaunt large amounts of money around.
Outside Medellin
- To Guatape to see La Piedra del Peñol (a.k.a. Peñon de Guatape) is a 200m high rock dominating the landscape. A climb to the top will cost you a few thousand pesos, but the view is breathtaking. There are buses going about every hour from the Medellín north bus terminal.
- To Santa Fe de Antioquia, is nice, warm and full of pretty young girls with swimsuits. It`s one of the best places in Colombia to rest and have a lot of fun.
Cali
Cali is a city in southwestern Colombia, capital of the Valle del Cauca department. It has about two million inhabitants and it is a significant industrial and commercial center of activity in Colombia. Being around 1,000 metres above sea level, it has a warm, but not excessively hot climate. It's best known for its salsa music and beautiful women.
Getting there
By bus
From the Alfonso Bonilla Aragon International airport, about 20 minutes from the city, the taxi trip costs 10 dollars, or just 2 dollars for a bus. Recommendation: Travel only by certified transport companies, like Expreso Palmira, Bolivariano o Expreso Brasilia. This companies are safe and comfortable for you and your luggage. You may bargain with other companies, but the trip may be very uncomfortable.
By plane
Cali's International Airport is 16km north of the city and can be reached by bus or taxi. All domestic and some international destinations can be reached.
Getting around
By taxi
Taxis are a fast and affordable way to get through the city. Only use official cars and try to call for one if possible (you may call the local numbers 444 44 44, 555 55 55 and ask for one, your name and destination will be registered in the head office). Make sure the meter runs. The meters counts by units, not money. i.e: A trip that the meter marks 48 Units, you pay around USD1. Recommendations: Do not leave your luggage inside the taxi while you are not. Sometimes happens that drivers take off as soon as you are out the taxi and your luggage is still in the trunk. Anyway, many of the taxi drivers are nice and gentle people and have some good stories to tell if you know the language.
By bus
There are 23 urban transport companies to travel around the city. You may ask someone for a route, people are very willing to help. A regular trip costs $1.300 local currency, close to US$.60
Masivo Integrado de Occidente - MIO: In 2006, the city built a massive transport solution system bringing better and safer transport conditions.
Things to see
- Museo del Oro, Calle 7 No. 4-69. Small collection of pottery and gold. There are also small art exhibitions. The entrance is free and it's open Monday till Saturday.
Cali
- Museo Arqueologico La Merced, located in the downtown, shows pre-Hispanic exhibits and religious art.
- Cristo Rey A statue located in the top of a hill, similar to Cristo de Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro, Brasil offers a great city view and good exercise climbing the mountain. Do not walk alone. It's not a real safe place.
- Estatua de Belalcazar, like the city of Popayan to it's south, Cali was founded by a Spaniard named Sebastian de Belalcazar. There is a statue in Belalcazar's honor in a nice residential area of Cali, where you can look out over the whole city. It's much safer than Cristo Rey.
- Zoologico de Cali, this is an excellent zoo with many animals from around the world. The premises are very well kept and, surprisingly, it is located in an up-scale side of town. The animals generally have lots of space for themselves. Do not miss: the Bengal tigers, the butterflies, and the birds.
- Culture Cali has many cultural offerings, like the Teatro Municipal Enrique Buenaventura, Centro Cultural Comfandi, Teatro Jorge Isaacs, etc.
Nice places: Lake Calima (one and a half hour drive from city) nice place to stay for about 30 dollars night also one of the best places for windsurf in South America
Things to do
- Shopping Centers: Walk around Chipichape, a big indoor/outdoor shopping center. It provides nearly everything and especially the possibility to have a drink at various outdoor bars, and to see many calenas. Its the best place to meet other foreigners, immigrants and English speaking natives. Other shopping centers you may want to visit are Palmetto Plaza, Cosmocentro, Unicentro and Jardin Plaza. All of them had their own Movie Theater complex.
- Soccer Matches: In the Estadio Olimpico Pascual Guerrero is the host place of the local teams of the city, Deportivo Cali and America de Cali. Normally each Sunday one of them plays a match towards the national championship. Between the months of May-June and November-December they are in playoffs, so the matches are more exciting. It is recommended that tourists sit on the west side section, "Occidental", of the stadium. Under no circumstances should a tourist sit at the south side of the stadium as this is where the popular barras for both teams are located.
- Mountain Biking: Excellent tracks there, get information at BTT de Colombia Bike store (yellow pages ask for Julio).
- Wind or Kite surfing: The best place in South America, wind blows virtually 365 days a year, find information at Velasy Vientos
- Salsa Dancing: Cali is one of the most famous and popular places for salsa in the world. You can find people dancing in the streets and every single night find a club open for salsa dancing. These clubs have live salsa music, with popular groups such as "La Sonora Carrusel".
Eating
- Pandebono - fried rings of cheese bread which is quite typical of Cali
- Buñuelos - sweet fried doughnut balls
- Sancocho de gallina - a very popular chicken soup, best found in a town called Ginebra, about one hour drive from Cali
- Manjar blanco - a sweet made from cooked sugar and milk, similar to dulce de leche
- Chontaduro or peach palm fruit - a local delicacy that is sold on the street, topped with salt or honey
- Mango viche - green unripened mango, which is sold on the street and eaten with salt and lemon juice
- Guarapo - a deliciously refreshing drink of freshly pressed sugar cane juice (usually the seller has a machine and extracts the juice right in front of you) served with ice and a squirt of lemon juice
- Grosellas - small sour fruits which are sold on the street in bags and are eaten with salt
- Arroz atoyado - one of Valle del Cauca's most delicious dishes, almost like a risotto with chicken, sausages and potatoes
- Empanadas - corn pastries filled with meat or chicken and eaten with hot sauce (aji)
- Jugo de lulo or lulo juice - the most delicious of all local fruit juices
- Aborrajados - baked cheese-filled plantains
- Dulce de Guayaba con queso - a delicious dollop of guava paste on top of a fresh slice of local 'cuajada' cheese
Potent potables
- Guarapo - the juice of sugar cane which grows in the Cauca river valley
- Aguardiente - one of the favorite alcoholic beverage in Colombia, with each region has its preferred brand - the local brand is Aguardiente Blanco del Valle and is sweet and licorice-flavored
- Chicha - slightly-alcoholic beverage made of fermented pineapples
Cali's nightlife is on Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. There are some good clubs and bars.
Nightlife
- Visit Avenida Sexta Cali's Broadway day or night. Some low level Cali discos are located there, but it is so crowded, that it isn't very safe.
- Alterno Bar is more like a crossover type of bar, its pretty good and you can meet a lot of people there.
- Blue Amigos Cafe & Bar at Cali Plaza Hotel has free wi-fi.
- Chango is a popular salsa club in the famous Juanchito sector in the other side of the Cauca River. Best salsa party in town.
- Cucaramacara is a great local club with excellent mix of Latin music and good looking locals. Get a bottle and a table and enjoy.
- El Faro is the place to go if you like classic rock/heavy metal. Located in "El Limonar" a "Jirafa" (yard of beer) is about US$3.
- Eliptica is an outside bar situated on a hill in the outskirts of Cali. The views are beautiful and this is a good place for an after party. Open till six or until the police shut it down.
- Fanaticos Sport's Bar is the 'IN' place at Palmetto Plaza Shopping center, where college guys and young professionals meet to watch their favourite sports games. Great beer and good prices, open every day until 3am.
- Flores Frescas is a renowned cabaret just off Avenida Sexta, with lots of good looking local girls. COL$15,000 entry, beers COL$5000 a can.
- Forum is a popular club for electronic music with an energetic atmosphere.
- London Bar is busy only on a Thursday night when there is a live salsa band playing.
- Praga is a popular club which plays a mix of all types of music called crossover.
- Tin Tin Deo is a very comfortable and an almost magic place where people can enjoy the classic salsa music and other Caribbean rhythms.
Accommodations
- Hotel Cali Plaza - at the corner of Calle 15N and Avenia Sexta, in the heart of Cali, is an American owned hotel with apartments and 24 hour security.
- Hotel Valle Real - 43 naturally lit, ample space rooms, understated elegance, great views, very nice.
- Hotel Don Jaime - The Don Jaime Hotel opened its doors in October 18, 1983. We are a small hotel, where our guests are given personalized attention with warmth and efficiency. With air conditioned, double beds, wide-band Internet connection, TV (60 channels), mini-bar, telephone, alarm clock with radio and amenities, all within an attractive decoration that gives our guests a pleasant stay. In the hotel, you can enjoy a festive Terrace-bar located in the Sixth Avenue, and a Restaurant with a menu for every taste. Excellent illumination, air conditioned, for your business or social gatherings. Inside the hotel you’ll find a fresh ambience, full of nature, inviting to relaxation.
- Iguana Hostel - The Iguana is the travelers hostel in Cali, Colombia. Located in a quiet and secure residential neighbourhood but yet a stonethrow away from the local nightlife and restaurants. The Iguana provides a secure and carefree environment with friendly and knowledgable staff. We can arrange salsa and Spanish classes for you and organize tours to attractions outside of Cali. Swiss-run hostel. Calm on weekdays, but can get full and noisy on weekends.
Stay safe
Keep your eyes open at night or take a taxi. Night at Avenida Sexta is not safe at all, try not walking at night specially alone. Like any other capital city, don't walk with jewelry or let people around you know you have cash on you. Most places around hotels are safe.
Outside Cali
- The little hamlet of San Cipriano is a good day trip. Most people visit this place only for the ride to it, but it is also possible to stay overnight. Enjoy a swim in the various river beaches, or enjoy a tube ride down the river.
- Calima Lake
- City of Buga 1 hour drive. Visit "La Basilica", a major pilgrimage site in Colombia (ask for Dulces del Valle, the best place for traditional dulces)
- City of Jamundi half hour drive (ask for Cholados)
- Popayan is about two hours away, and a nice place to stay for a couple of days.
Popayan
The traditional city of Popayan is the birthplace of many of Colombia’s most illustrious statesmen. Popayán, one of the most beautiful and treasured colonial cities of Colombia, is the capital of Cauca Department founded at the foot of Volcán Puracé, in 1537 by Sebastián Belalcázar, a Spanish adventurer seeking the famed El Dorado.
Situated in the Andean cordillera halfway between Bogota and Quito, it soon drew settlers who established sugar plantations in the Cauca river valley. As well as containing many fine colonial houses and churches, it is also noted for its Holy Week procession. Tierradentro, in the southwest of the country, has beautiful manmade burial caves painted with pre-Colombian geometric patterns. It is known as the "white city" because of its beautiful colonial houses. Located at an altitude of 1,737 meters, the city is well-known for its colonial architecture and its contributions to Colombian cultural and political life.
More presidents have come from Popayán than any other city in Colombia and it was also home to noted poets, painters, and composers. The mild climate attracted others and the town became an important religious center with many churches, monasteries and seminaries, as well as a prosperous trade center. Much of the activity of the area is recorded in the Popayán Papers, correspondence between the inter-related members of the local aristocracy, plus patriotic writings from Colombia's struggle for independence. As the economic importance of the town waned, Popayán lost business, but retained its importance in religious and cultural spheres.
The University of Cauca was founded in 1827, following the requirements established by Simón Bolívar, El Libertador, on the site of an indigenous village. The colonial architecture remained intact until the devastating earthquake of 1983 left only one of the many churches standing. A massive reconstruction effort followed, restoring the town to its colonial look in the monasteries, cathedral, colonial houses, streets and museums. Popayán is a Colombian historical site listed on the national registry, and an attractive destination, particularly during the famed Semana Santa, Holy Week, celebrations.
Silva is a beautiful Indian town in the same region. The country also contains much unspoilt countryside; the Guajira Peninsula is home to more than 100,000 nomadic Indians.
Isla Gorgona is a remote Island in the pacific reachable from Cali via Buenaventura (2.5 hrs to the west). Gorgona is a national park, especially known for scuba diving expeditions because of the great diversity in fauna.
Santuario de las Lajas
This is in the far southwest of Colombia off the Tansamerican Highway near the Equador border. Built on a stone bridge spanning a deep gorge, the neo-Gothic Santuario de Las Lajas is a strange but spectacular site, as well as a hugely popular destination for pilgrims in need of a miracle. They place their faith in the Virgin Mary, whose image is believed to have emerged from an enormous vertical rock 45m (147ft) above the river sometime in the mid-18th century. Plaques of thanksgiving line the walls of the canyon, many from prominent Colombian politicians.
The church is built directly against the rocky wall of the gorge where the image appeared. A gilded painting of the Virgin, accompanied by Santo Domingo and San Francisco, has been painted directly on the rocks just to be sure there is no confusion. The first chapel was constructed in 1803, though today's church, designed by Nariño architect Lucindo Espinoza, was built between 1926 and 1944.
Caribbean Coast
The main tourist resorts on Colombia’s 1600km- (1000 mile-) long Caribbean coast lie near Santa Marta, one of the first major cities founded by the Spanish in South America. Its modern hotels, white beaches and proximity to fashionable beach resorts now make it a popular base for visitors wishing to explore the coast. The Tayrona National Park, some 35km (22 miles) south of Santa Marta, is one of the country’s most popular parks. Its major attraction is its deep bays, shaded with coconut trees, beautiful beaches and several coral reefs. Cartagena, an ancient walled fortress city on the north coast, is also worth a visit, particularly for its fascinating Old Town. Tourist facilities have been considerably developed in recent years, particularly at El Laguita, an L-shaped pensinsula, now packed with hotels and expensive restaurants. Some 35km (22 miles) west lie the Islas del Rosario, an archipelago of about 25 small coral islands now declared a national park. Cruises and tours are widely available and can be booked in Cartagena. Easily reached from Cartagena, by plane or boat, are the islands of San Andrés and Providencia, nearly 500km (300 miles) north of the Colombian coast. San Andrés was once the headquarters of the English pirate Captain Henry Morgan, the scourge of the Caribbean. The islands are duty-free, and consequently often crowded, but there are still several less spoilt parts. Popular excursions include visits by boat to Johnny Cay and the Aquarium.
Cartagena (de Indias)
This city is legendary both for its history and its beauty. It is considered by many as one of the world's most beautiful, fascinating and magical cities. It has been immortalised on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and photographed a zillion times - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site based on the incomparable fortifications and colonial buildings.
Cartagena de Indias was founded by Don Pedro de Heredia in 1533 as a main port to bring Europeans and their goods into South America, and transport gold, silver and all sorts of plants, animals, minerals and handicrafts from all over the continent across the Caribbean and on to the Old World. This makes Cartagena one of the most interesting sites in South America. Massive defensive walls surround the historical center. A slow walk down the narrow alleys with the romantic light of lanterns will set you back in time. Various portals through the defensive walls give you access to the picturesque nooks, crannies, and alleys in the historic center. Cartagena was one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas and is currently populated by an ethnic mix representative of Colombia's own variety.
Typical sounds of Caribbean music will follow you everywhere. They are an expression of the joy of life that is ever-present here. Often you will hear people singing on public buses or just dancing in the streets where there is music nearby. In the modern section of "Bocagrande" are long sandy beaches, hotels, restaurants, casinos, discos and all kinds of shops geared towards tourists. Over twenty islands offer many quiet anchorages and beaches to relax. Experience the contrast between uninhabited islands and islands with colorful weekend houses built in the typical Caribbean style.
Today the city hosts intellectuals and plenty of beautiful refurbished homes amongst exotic, highly attractive and dynamic plazas, waterfronts and other public spaces. One of the most hospitable venues for any tourist looking for a good rest are the combination of Caribbean and Colombian magical realism and tropical ambiance of its natural wonders.
Cartagena, located on Colombia's northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, is the most visited city in the country by tourists. It gets extremely crowded in the December holidays and the holy week, when schools are out and most Colombians take their vacations. The city has basically two main parts where tourists go: the walled colonial city ("ciudad amurallada"), which is truly amazing and has many fancy restaurants and clubs; and a long strip of hotel towers and condos fronting onto the beach, known as Bocagrande.
Getting in
Cartagena is 1000 km north of Bogotá (about an hour by air), or three hours' flight from Miami and four to four and a half hours from New York City. The Rafael Nuñez International Airport receives international flights from Panama City, Miami and Madrid.
The bus terminal is 6 km east of the old city. Frequent white and green metrocar buses go to the old city and cost C$ 1,000 ($0.50). Buses leave every hour for Barranquilla, and from from which there are frequent connections to Santa Marta.
Getting around
The old town, in particular, is best explored on foot, while most places in Bocagrande are also within walking distance.
To reach other destinations such as the San Felipe Fort, there are many buses running all over the city without apparent order or logic. Ask the driver or other people who are waiting which bus goes to your destination.
Taxis are generally easy to find, although in the old town you may have to walk a few blocks away from the center, toward the wider road close to wall. From the old town to Boca Grande or vice versa, expect to pay COP$4,000; from the airport to the old town is COP$7,000 or COP$10,000 at night.
A horse and cart is a popular way for tourists to get to know the old town. These can be flagged down in the street or there are usually some waiting at the Plaza Bolivar or close to the Santa Clara hotel.
Cartagena has several harbors for boats going out to the Islas del Rosario and Playa Blanca, including the Muelle Turistico, Muelle Todomar.
Warning
Watch out for the "Money-Changing-Magicians"
Those street vendors offer you a very good exchange rate. After you have counted the money you will recognize that a small amount is missing, and after complaining he will put exactly that amount on top again. In the same move they will take some big notes from the bottom. Most people won't count their money a second time, and first think they made a good deal but in fact got ripped off.
The street vendors can be very annoying, but a simple "No quiero nada" in Spanish will keep them away.
Things to see
- Cartagena's 500-hundred year-old coralstone forts and great parts of its walled city are admirably intact and represent some of the finest examples of civil and military architecture of the Spanish colonial times.
- While you are in Cartagena, don't miss the Castillo de San Felipe, a fortress designed by the Dutch engineer Richard Carr and built in 1657 by the Spanish for protection against pirates while shipping gold out to Europe. Opening hours 8am-6pm, entrance fee COP$ 11,000.
- Close to the San Felipe fortress is the 150m high La Popa hill, which offers great views over Cartagena and the harbor area. The 17th century Santa Cruz monastery is here, which has a beautifully restored courtyard and a fine image of the Virgin of La Candelaria. Entrance to La Popa is COP$3,000.
- Cartagena's main attraction is its historic old town surrounded by the city wall. Main entrance is the Clock Tower Building. The walled city includes the neighbourhoods Centro, San Diego, Getsemaní and the modern part La Matuna. The oldest part of Cartagena is around Plaza Trinidad in Getsemaní.
- Museums: Cartagena is a city full of history, which can be visited at the Palacio de la Inquisición (Palace of Inquisition), where the Spanish Inquisition tortured, judged and convicted men accused of crimes against religion. It is situated in 'Plaza de Bolivar', in the historic center. An English speaking tourist guide can be used for COP$15.000.
- Churches: Almost all churches in the historic center are worth visiting, especially Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, in honor of the priest St. Pedro Claver, who was the first saint of the new world for his work with slaves. Also visit La Catedral, near Plaza de Bolivar and the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.
Things to do
- Nearby coral reefs, powdery beaches, impressive mangroves, and waterways complement the historic and urban beauty.
Playa Blanca
If you are interested in beaching it, Playa Blanca is the place to be. You can take either a ferry from the port near the Centro de Convenciones or go by car (via the bridge to the Island of Baru). There is also a direct bus going on Sunday morning. The beaches are far cleaner than those in and around the city. There are a lot of vendors trying to hassle you for oysters or massages. You can rent a hammock and stay the night as well, which is a very budget-conscious way to spend a few days. Playa Blanca is widely regarded as the best beach of Cartagena, but is not that easy to reach. With its white sand and crystal clear water it is probably one of the best beaches in Colombia. After tour-boats leave in the afternoon it is also very peaceful and quiet. It is worth staying on Playa Blanca for at least one night. There are several places where you can rent hammocks, get food and drinks, for example “Wittenbergs place” or "Donde Raimundo". On the beach you will be approached to buy massages, fruit platters, sea food and jewelry among other things. Look out for the vendors selling oysters: they will give you an oyster as a present (regalo) to taste. They will quickly crack the shells and serve you a number of oysters, after which you are told that they each cost 2,000 pesos. Avoid this 30,000 peso charge and the subsequent argument on the beach. If you are looking for great seafood and Coco Locos, ask around for Nelson Mandela.
To get there by boat, take a bus or taxi to “Mercado Bazurto”, the big market of Cartagena about 10 minutes from the Center. From there, every day, except Sundays, small cargo-boats (lancha de carga) leave for Playa Blanca. They don´t have an exact departure time, be there before 9 a.m. to be sure. You will have to pay about 15.000 pesos each way(september 2006) and the trip takes more or less 1 hour to reach the beach.The way back is much easier, most boats (tourboats) will bring you back for the same price. Keep in mind that the last boats from Playa Blanca to Cartagena leave around 2-3 p.m.! More comfortable and safer is taking a roundtrip from the center at Muelle de las Pegasos. You can bargain down a one-way-trip without lunch to about 25.000 Pesos plus 8.300 port tax. The tour takes you to Rosario Islands first until it reaches Playa Blanca in the late morning. You can leave the tour there to stay overnight.
Getting there overland is not recommended however, if you must it is a 2-3 tough hours buy public transport: 1. bus to Pasacaballos – 2. ferry or canoe to cross “Canal del Dique” – 3.on the other side you take any kind of transport to Santa Ana (bus,jeep,mototaxi) - 4.from Santana further on to Playa Blanca there are buses, jeeps or mototaxis - if you like it cheap try to reach Santana before 9 a.m, later you have to take a mototaxi for 12.000 pesos which you actually can take already once your cross the "Canal del Dique". Its about 2 hours walking distance from Santana to Playa Planca. The fare are altogether is around 3.500 pesos or 12.000 pesos if you take a mototaxi once you cross the "Canal del Dique"
Islas del Rosario
Several agents arrange boat tours to Islas del Rosario. A set of small islands off the coast. Usually the tour includes lunch, a visit to an aquarium and a few hours at Playa Blanca. Not included in the price is harbor tax and park entrance (C$8.300 total) and the entrance fee to the aquarium (C$12.000). If you buy your tour at one of the street vendors, don't pay in advance, preferably pay part or all at return in Cartagena.
Shopping
Handcrafts are fashionable and sophisticated
Eating out
Cartagena features a rich fusion cuisine, combining ingredients and methods of the New and Old Worlds, as well as of the original African, Arabian and other legacies of its inhabitants. Eating set menu lunches and dinners in local restaurants costs around COP$4,000 pesos ($2). A typical dish consists of fried fish (if you are by the beach), chicken or meat, served with coconut rice (arroz de coco), fried plantains (patacones) and salad. There are a few places that sell $1 fruit juices. Colombia boasts a very good range of exotic fruits that can be mixed with water or milk.
In the old town, dozens of good restaurants can be found dotted around the streets. They are particularly concentrated close to the Plaza Santo Domingo in El Centro, such as:
- Saint Michel - on the northwest corner of the Plaza. If you fancy a change from the usual seafood or Italian restaurants, this French option serves some very tasty fondues as the main courses in its three-course menus, very good value at around USD$10, as well as plenty of other dishes and wine at more reasonable prices than at most restaurants in this area.
There are also several around the smaller but more intimate San Diego Plaza next to the Santa Clara hotel and include:
- La Cevicheria - Calle Stuar, opposite Hotel Santa Clara, Tel: 6642760. A great selection of hot and cold ceviches, around USD$8 a dish.
- Pazza Luna - good, super thin crust pizzas, as well as some other dishes such as pastas.
Nightlife
One of the most popular watering holes for local Cartageneros is Mister Babilla, located on the Avenida del Arsenal, near the Centro de Convenciones. This place is great on the weekends and is notorious for having people dancing on the tables and the bar late into the night! A great time!
La Avenida del Arsenal is located along the bay near the Centro de Convenciones. In its heyday it was THE place to be. Now much of the nightlife in Cartagena has moved to the Ciudad Vieja, but this strip of about 10 discotecas is still a raging place to experience on weekends. Entry to most of the discos is 10,000 to 20,000 Colombian pesos.
Accommodations
In the Ciudad Amurallada, the most famous hotels are Santa Clara and Santa Teresa, both old monasteries renovated in the 90s. Either of them have fabulous facilities - expect prices like Monaco. Otherwise, the newest part of the city, Bocagrande, offers the largest number of hotels of all prices. You should always try to stay in the Ciudad Amurallada, since this is what makes Cartagena unique, rather than its beaches, which are normally too crowded and not really clean. If you cannot afford the five-star hotels, you may try with colonial houses turned into hostels, but they are rather small and sometimes getting a room there may be a matter of luck.
Budget
- Casa del Curato - The hotel recently has been built in a 18th century mansion, located in the most beautiful part of Cartagena's Historic Old Town: Barrio San Diego, right in between Santo Santo Toribio Church and Hotel Santa Clara. Main attractions like Plaza San Diego, San Pedro Claver Church, Parque Bolivar or Plaza Santo Domingo are just a few minutes walk away. Enjoy the combination of the tradition with state of the art tecnologies: All rooms are equipped with double beds, air-conditioning, a private bathroom with hot water, cable TV, mini-bar, safe, telephone and broadband Internet.
- Hotel da Pietro - Da Pietro Hotel is located on the Caribbean, in the heart of the touristic area of Cartagena de Indias "Historical and Cultural Heritage of Humankind", where you'll feel in a comfortable and secure familiar environment. Our 25 rooms are equipped thinking of your comfort, with the services of the best hotels, cable TV, room service, telephone, A/C, and hot water. We offer a Tropical Terrace where enjoying our sun will be a tranquilizing comfort. We also offer meetings service and outdoor parties.
- Capilla del Mar - the hotel lives i the tradition of Cartegena, 202 remodelled rooms, three distict restaurants, a pool, bar, everything you want to make your stay enjoyable.
- Hotel Charlotte - In this city, located on the shores of the Caribbean Sea and declared Historical Heritage of Humankind by UNESCO, is situated the Hotel Charlotte Cartagena. We offer an exclusive environment with excellent quality and service in Bocagrande, the main touristic zone of the city.
Mid-Range
- Hotel 3 Banderas - Located in San Diego, right in the center of the walled city of Cartagena. Just three blocks from the Caribbean Sea! All of Cartagena's attractions are within walking distance. Neighbourhood attractions include the sidewalk cafés and galleries of Plaza San Diego as well as the five star Santa Clara Hotel, built in a former monastary. Guests will appreciate the friendly attention and the quiet atmosphere of our family run hotel. Twenty rooms, two spacious patios and roof-top terraces overlooking Cartagena offer a relaxing stay. All rooms are air-conditioned and equipped with Cable TV. Facilities include free Broadband Internet Access. Various rooms located in the second floor also offer a private balcony.
- Casa India Catalina - recently converted, opened in 2006. Spacious rooms, some with balconies onto the street. Decent swimming pool. Simple furnishings. No hot water, but who really need it here?
- Hotel Casa La Fe - Ideally located in the historic centre of Cartagena, Hotel Casa La Fe was recently awarded the accolade of "Best Hidden Gem Hotel in South America" by the internet travel forum TripAdvisor. We offer high quality Bed and Breakfast accommodation set in relaxed and private surroundings. The hotel is situated within short walking distance of all the antiquities. The bathing beaches are less than five minutes by taxi whilst our beach villa and sailboat offer other opportunities for fun in the sun. We have fourteen comfortably furnished en-suite bedrooms, several with private balconies overlooking a leafy plaza and all rooms have WiFi and low-cost international direct dial phones. We serve breakfast in the garden-patio and have a rooftop terrace for catching the breeze or cooling-off in the pool-jacuzzi. Click on the orange buttons for hotel details, prices and real-time availability. Click on the blue button to book online through our secure server, with immediate confirmation of your reservation.
Outside Cartagena
Volcan del Totumo
At the 66 kilometre north of Cartagena lies Volcán del Totumo, a 15m high mud volcano. You can enter the crater and take a mud bath (entrance C$2.000), which is enormous fun and highly recommended. Afterwards you can wash off the mud in the nearby laguna.
The easiest way to get there is to take a tour. It costs around COP$30,000 with Rafael Perez tours (next door to the Cartagena Plaza Hotel in Bocagrande) and include the one hour each way journey to the volcano, as well as lunch and a swim at La Boquilla on the return to Cartagena. Another tour company is Los Pinos, which also charges COP$30,000 (or $25,000 without lunch) and uses the Manzanillo del Mar fishing village for a swim on the return journey. This tour can be booked from many hotels, such as the Casa Viena, in Calle San Andrés (Getsemaní), 5-664-6242. Although the mud bath and massages are offered free of charge, you will be expected to tip anyone who helped you before your bus leaves. Other services expecting tips include storing your belongings, your shoes, holding onto your camera and taking snaps while you are immersed in the mud, and the women who help you wash off in the laguna. Tips of between COP$1,000 and $5,000 for each person are the norm, depending on the service. Be sure to bring change.
To go by yourself is quite a hassle, but you may find you have the whole volcano to yourself and take all the time you want. To go by yourself take a bus from the city center to Terminal de transporte (COP$1,000). There take the hourly bus to Galerazamba and get off at Lomito Arena (COP$4,000). From there it is 45 minute walk or take a motortaxi (COP$2,000). The whole trip takes about two-and-half hours. The last bus back from Lomito Arena leaves around 3pm.
Jardin Botanico de Guillermo Piñeres
A pleasant escape from the city rush, 18 km out of Cartagena close to “Turbaco”, a small town twenty km from the center of Cartagena. Take a bus to the bus terminal and get off at “la Bomba de Amparo”, a big gasoline station 25 minutes out of the center, then from there, buses leave to “Turbaco”- get off (ask the driver) a bit before Turbaco and walk to the right, for about 20 minutess straight ahead. Together with your entry ticket, you get a leaflet which lists about 250 plants identified in the gardens, including some varieties of coca plants.
Punta Arena
A fishing village ten minutes by boat on the island of “Tierrabomba”, in front of “Laguito” (Bocagrande). You reach it by boats (lanchas), leaving from “Muelle de los Pegasos” or with boats in “Laguito” next to the Hilton Hotel. Punta Arena has probably the nicest beaches close to Cartagena. There are restaurants where you can get food and drinks. Enjoy a day, hanging out under the palm trees with a fantastic few on the skyline of Cartagena.
La Boquilla
La Boquilla is a fishing village (pueblo de pescadores) close to Cartagena. Take a bus for COP$900 (octuber 2006), from India Catalina (Avenida Venezuela), if you get off of the bus at the end of the ride you can rent a canoe which brings you to a nice beach (Playa de Oro) passing through lagoons and mangroves – pay for the boat once you are back.
Barranquilla
A busy port and Colombia’s fourth city, Barranquilla is located towards the mouth of the Magdalena River. It is the nation’s main maritime port and is one of the country's primary commercial centers. There is a colorful market in a side channel of the Magdalena.
Barranquilla is one of the most beautiful cities in Colombia. It's worth to travel and be witness to one of the most representative festivities in the whole latinoamerican region: the Carnival. It is ranked as the second in South America, but truly they have their own charm and can be a very exciting and memorable experience.
You can shop in any of the modern malls in the downtown area. The city has plenty to offer: a very exciting night life as well as many international restaurants. Visit the Museo Romantico to get a taste of the city's traditions.
The city is ranked as the fourth one in importance of Colombia, and it's the most important sea port on the Colombian Caribbean. Its economy is based on industry and commerce. Its population is around 1.7 million in 2001, but its metropolitan area can be over 2.2 million.
The Ernesto Cortizzos Int'l airport serves domestic and international travel. It is quite modern and comfortable. The airport terminal is on the far westside of the city. It costs $2-3 to get to the city center by taxi. Buses run by the terminal as well and will get you into the city for $0.45 or less.
The weather in Barranquilla is hot and humid (29ºC and 65% of relative humidity), with no much variation along the year. However, northern winds cool the city in a period between december and february, making weather more comfortable. Barranquilla has many beautiful beaches, and landscapes.
If you go to Barranquilla, do not forget to taste the great flavor of their cousine: Arepa e' Huevo (arepa with egg), Mojarra frita (fried mojarra), all kinds of Sancochos (thick soup with vegetables. It can be made of: beef, chicken, fish, guandules, and a combination of all of them), butifarra (a type of Italian sausage), and an excellent selection of Arabic and Chinese food that will make you lick your fingers!
Barranquilla is also called Curramba (from a language game) and the Golden Gate to Colombia (Puerta de Oro de Colombia). The people are very funny, friendly and happy. Barranquilla is aid to be the city of Colombia where women have the most beautiful bodies and are generally gorgeous.
Getting around
Buses and minibuses crisscross the city, charging around $0.40. Moto-taxis are everywhere and popular, although illegal to take paying passengers. A short ride may run no more than $0.40. A fare from the city center to Los Altos del Prado runs about $1.25. However, this kind of transportation may not have a future.
Something to plan for
Every year by the end of February or early March, Barranquilla serves host to one of the largest carnaval in the world, the famous "Carnavales de Barranquilla". Barranquilla also houses the beautiful and famous Teatro Amira de la Rosa, the old Customs building-Edificio de la Aduana; the Museum of Gold; and many other great places to visit. As well as the Bocas de Ceniza, where the Magdalena River meets the Atlantic Ocean. The "Pumarejo" Bridge one of the most majestic bridges in the country for its extension and architecture.
Eating
Local delicacies include arroz con coco and sancocho de guandul, lentejas, zaragozas, or arveja. Sancocho de gallina and Sopa de Mondongo (Tripe soup) are another local favorites. Expect it on the menu if you wish to try local food. Arepa con huevo, the local variant of the arepa, is another favored treat. You can buy fish very cheaply, and the famous butifarra (sort of like a sausage in a ball shape) is really good.
Barranquilla hotels
- Royal Hotel Barranquilla - We are your best and most secure choice. with our quality of attention and efficient service, your stay with us will be unforgettable. We are in an excellent location for you to enjoy the attractions of Barranquilla.
- Yivinaca Apart Hotel - North of the city in an exclusive sector of Barranquilla near the main restaurants, banks, with easy access. Our apartments are designed for your ultimate comfort no matter how long you decide to stay with us.
- Hotel Country Norte - Welcome to Hotel Country Norte in Barranquilla, Colombia. Our hotel is located in the heart of the commercial / banking center of Barranquilla. We offer bargain and discount hotel reservations and accommodation for the holiday vacation tourist and business traveller alike. Regardless of which Barranquilla hotels you may have heard of, Hotel Country Norte has beautiful rooms to fit your budget and comfortable suites for your more discriminating needs. We also have large and small banquet and conference rooms available, to accommodate your most important events. We have sixty comfortable and modern rooms with air conditioning, cable television, minibar, international telephone service, safe deposit boxes, a restaurant (Orquídea de Oro), swimming pool, room service, internet service, laundry service and internal parking.
- Hotel Puerta del Sol - a five star hotel central to everything in Barranquilla, well they claim they are a five star hotel on their website, but reviews claim they are three stars, let's settle for four stars because the place does look pretty nice, yet the rates are quite reasonable, I'd try it!
Santa Marta
La Perla de Las Americas (Pearl of the Americas). Santa Marta is both an important commercial port and tourist destination. Everyday there are cargo ships coming and going and the action is very much visible from any of the restaurants, bars, cafeterias, hotels etc. that are behind the street that parallels the beach. From the beach, the view of the Caribbean Sea is more or less to the north with a huge rock of an island jutting up out of the water to make a somewhat dramatic effect. Off to the right is the port snug behind another even bigger rock. This is a decent beach if you like beaches that are right in town (i.e. lots of people, vendors, noise, etc.) Vendors are rather aggressive if you are on the beach or in one of the many businesses across the road from the beach. This also goes for the market district to a somewhat lesser extent. Simon Bolivar described Santa Marta as the most beautiful bay on earth (guess he didn't travel much).
Getting in by bus
The bus station (terminal de tranporte) is outside of town to the south on the main highway (3,000 pesos to the beach in taxi), by bus - 800.
Getting around
The streets are numbered, and the city is laid out in a grid pattern (more or less.) The beach can be considered "Carrera 1" (1st St.), and the first street is usually "Carrera 1A" (1A St.) The next street after the first row of buildings is Carrera 2 (2nd St.) Calles are streets running from north to south, and they start in the extreme east of the city.
Unlike bigger cities in Colombia, taxis do not run on a meter. Fares range from 3000 COP for a "lift" (usually a ride no more than 10 minutes) to upwards of 20,000 COP, depending on where you go. If you meet someone who 'knows' a taxi driver, chances are they actually do - this can be a good opportunity to negotiate a price to your next checkpoint in Colombia. Some drivers will take you as far as Barranquilla, although this will have to be negotiated beforehand.
Bus to the airport costs 10,000. Bus to Park Tyrona from El Miramar Hotel cost 8-10,000 COP leaves between 10-11 am daily. Bus to Taganga is 800 pesos.
What to see
Museo del Oro, Calle 14 No.2-67 (on plaza Bolivar). Displays a collection of precolumbian pottery, a nice collection of gold and a scale model of Ciudad Perdida. Free entrance. Photos of Santa Marta Area: http://www.caliplaza.com/html/santa_marta.html
What to do
- The nearby coral reefs provides good possibilties for diving. Although diving in Taganga might be cheaper.
- On the beaches, you can usually rent a jetski in increments of 10 minutes. If you are not comfortable operating one, you can usually ask for a ride around. Lifejackets are often provided. If you are not a good swimmer, ask for a lifejacket.
- Quinta San Pedro (burial place of Simon Bolivar) take a busetta 800 pesos
- University Modern Art Collection carrera 2 between Calle 16 & 17
Shopping
Santa Marta is famous for its fast-talking beach sellers. As one can go to the beach 365 days a year, there are always people wandering up and down the beach selling anything from a song (travelling bands), to doctored photos (such as someone being crushed by a giant foot), to clothes, and even guided tours of the area.
The beaches in the northern suburb El Rodadero are known for having aggressive sellers, but see this as an opportunity to haggle! Usually aim for 2000-3000 COP (Pesos) below the asking price. If they truly say they can't sell it for less, then work your way up by increments of 500 pesos until you come to an agreement. Of course, if you don't care for anything, a simple, "No, gracias," will suffice.
Something that can come in handy is a 'mochila', a very common woven bag originally used by the Taganga natives to carry cocaine leaves when there was no food. Today they come in many different styles and fashions. Be wary when you have valuables - mochilas have no zippers, and are completely open at the top.
You can buy Hammocks, Mosquito Repellent, Suntan Lotion at El Miramar Hotel.
Eating
There are all manners of eating options. They seem to be good at roasting and grilling chicken and beef, though the beef is tough. Seafood is plentiful and relatively inexpensive (lots of shrimp and seafood cocktail vendors). Most varieties of fruit are available including cold climate fruits. At night street vendors sell all types of snacks ( pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs, french fries, shakes, kabobs, rice in milk with coco, fried stuffed doughy things, etc.), coffee, hot chocolate, and both hot cinnamon and lemon is usually available.
- Restauranr y Estadero Dumbira- great cheap seafood, Tanganga carrera 1 # 13-80- 57 1 4219011
- Hotel Miramar, Calle 10C No 1C-59 has the best lunch budget meals, 3500 pesos, a great place with fun people. This is where fruit juices and fruit salads were invented in Santa Marta because the owners thought 'gringos needed more fruit because they all smoked too much and had the munchies', true story, ask them. Fruit salads 4000 COP Juices 1000 COP Lunch 4000 COP Dinner 6000-7500 COP.
- Merkabar, Calle 10 No 2-11 - decent food for a good price.
- Ben & Josep´s bar restaurant (Dutch owner) at the beach next to the Park Hotel the very best filet mignon in Santa Marta
- Restaurante El Escorial - A good restaurant is in the middle of the block behind the beach on 11th street
- Shrimp Cocktails - you'll find these sold by street vendor near the beach.
Beverages
The drink of choice is, of course, beer. Because Santa Marta can get brutally hot during the summer (upwards of 35 C/95F), it is a good idea to constantly have a bottle of water with you. During the evenings, when it gets cooler, beer and friends is often an excellent combination. Beer prices in Santa Marta are 1000-1500 pesos in stores, and up to 5000 in bars.
Softdrinks can be found at nearly every restaurant - sometimes you can even pick it up in glass bottles. They are cheap: a drink usually costs no more than 1,000 COP.
Ask about Ben´s Bar on the Beach. Barrio Samario, La Puerta, and El Garage
Accommodations
If you are looking for accommodation, there are somewhat more expensive hotels, residences (local term) on the beach and if you are looking for cheaper options, then check out the hotels that are located on 10th street (calle). This is more to the east or closer to the port. Decent alternatives include:
- Hotel Ballena Azul - in a magical village of fishermen, tranquility and peace, and a gastronomic plethora delight the senses, only eight minutes from Santa Marta. The hotel will offer you the rest you so deserve.
Going out of town
Nearby are interesting little towns.
- The first is to the east, the little fishing village known as Taganga. Taganga has tourist accommodation. There are a lot of possibilities in diving and snorkelling in Taganga. The trip there and back (5 miles crossing over a mountain) can be enjoyed by bicycle. It´s a scenic place, slow-paced, or take one of the vans from carrera 1. El Ramarim and Tsunami are nice small hotels in Taganga.
- The second little town is the upscale El Rodadero which is a couple of miles to the west. There is of course tourist accommodation also.
- Bocachica is a fishing village on the island of “Tierrabomba” (pueblo de pescadores) Bocachica is worth to visit to see its restored fortress (Fuerte de San Fernando). The beach isn't really special but o.k to hang out for some hours. You will find several open air restaurants serving food and drinks. Local boats leave during the day every 30-45 minutes from "Muelle de los Pegassos". The boat ride takes about 15 minutes. Guides will try to sell you expensive “all included” trips to Bocachica but you should pay just the local fare. (in September 2006 - COP$3,000 pesos – one way).
Beach at Tayrona
Parque Nacional Tayrona
This little delightful spot is located about 30 minutes from the city of Rodadero. It is one of Colombia's most popular national parks and has some of South Americas loveliest coastline. You have to hike for about 20 minutes from the parking area, but it is well worth it. Once there, you have beautiful beaches, hammocks to rent for the night, food, water and surf. In El Parque Tayrona you can unwind one or more days on some of these beautiful beaches set in deep bays and shaded with coconut palms. Some beaches are bordered by coral reefs, and snorkelling is good, but beware the treacherous offshore currents. The region was once home to Tayrona Indians and remnants have been found in the park. Additionally, you can get a guide to take you to a native village in the nearby mountains for a truly cultural experience and insight into the life of the native South Americans of Santa Marta.
Ciudad Perdida
If you are looking for some more activity the six day trek to Ciudad Perdida is a good option.
Ciudad Perdida ('Lost City') was built between the 11th and 14th centuries though its origins are much older, going back to perhaps the 7th century. It is one of the largest pre-Columbian towns discovered in the Americas. There are about 150 stone terraces, which once served as foundations for houses. It's hidden deep in thick forest amid rugged mountains, far from any access roads - the return hike to the city takes six days. Spreading over an area of about 2 sq km, it is the largest Tayrona city found so far, and it appears to be their major political and economic center. Some 2000 to 4000 people are believed to have lived here. During the Conquest, the Spaniards wiped out the Tayronas, and their settlements disappeared without a trace under lush tropical vegetation. So did Ciudad Perdida for four centuries, until its discovery by guaqueros (treasure hunters) in 1975. Today only circular-shaped stone terraces covered by jungle remain, but the views and the location of the site are extraordinary. Archaeological digs have uncovered some Tayrona objects (fortunately, the guaqueros didn't manage to take everything), mainly various kinds of pottery (both ceremonial and utensil), goldwork and unique necklaces made of semiprecious stones. Some of these objects are on display in the Museo del Oro in Santa Marta and Bogotá.
It's not possible to visit the site on your own. Treks to Ciudad Perdida are arranged by Turcol (Carrera 1C No 20-15 Santa Marta, tel. 4333737, email: turcol_24@hotmail.com). The price is fixed, C$ 440.000 for a 6 day trek or C$ 350.000 for a 5 day trek, although small discounts can be arranged if you book directly with a guide. Some hostels in Santa Marta or Taganga can book the tour for you or can hook you up with one of the guides. Tours leave when there are enough people for a group, usually around twice a week. A recommended guide is Edwin Rey.
Another way to book it is at El Miramar Hotel on 10th Street: they are conscientious, have a safe and storage, have great breakfasts and have the experience of having organized this tour over 25 years ago. Want the story of the discovery, ask for Don Jairo at the front desk in El Miramar. He has 45 years experience in Santa Marta and can answer any question (with a joke - and in Spanish only).
The first day is a three hour walk to the first camp. The second day it's another four hours. And the third day it's six hours to the Ciudad Perdida. The fourth day you spend exploring the site. The fifth day is a eight hour walk back to the first camp and the sixth day is only three hours back to civilization. (An alternative is to spend only the third night at the site and the fourth night in the same camp as the second night, meaning you avoid the eight-hour fifth day.)
During the trek you will pass many little streams and waterfalls, some of which you can swim in, and have great views. There are several steep uphill climbs (the worst one takes about an hour on the first day), but it is worth it. Overall, because of afternoon rains, you only hike for about 3-4 hours per day.
There is a side trip to a small cocaine factory the first or the last day close to the first camp. It shouldn't cost more than C $20.000 per person. Guerilla groups also live in this area and from time to time kidnappings are reported.
- Shorts - During the day it's hot. One pair is enough for the six days, they will be stinking and sweaty after two hours anyway.
- Long pants and long sleeved shirts - Some dry clothes for the night which provide some warmth and protection against the mosquitoes.
- Good walking boots
- Sandals or an extra pair of shoes - There are some river crossings on the way so you might want to bring some extra footwear.
- Waterbottle - Can be refilled at some of the streams.
- Good Mosquito repellent - Mosquitoes are numerous and aggressive.
- Sleeping bag - The nights are cold at the Ciudad Perdida.
- Money - The sidetrip to the cocaine factory costs about C$20.000 and you might want to buy some drinks on the way to or back or tip the porters.
The Amazon Basin
Leticia
This is a small city of approximately 37,000 inhabitants on the left bank of the Amazon River, and at the point where Colombia, Brazil and Peru, come together in an area called Tres Fronteras. Leticia is the capital of the department of Amazonas, and Colombia's southernmost town (4.09° south 69.57° west) as well as its only major port on the river. It has an elevation of 96 meters above sea level and an average temperature of 27 °C (80.6 °F). Leticia has long been Colombia's shipping point for tropical fishes for the aquarium trade.
A long standing border dispute involving Leticia, between Colombia and Peru, was decided in 1934 by the League of Nations. This was the first instance of action by an international body in its powers covered by the Monroe Doctrine.
Even though it is a city within the borders of Colombia and a capital of one of its departaments, Leticia is very peaceful and isolated from the problems of the rest of the country; FARC activity is limited in the deep south of Colombia.
Leticia's early history
Early rumors about Leticia's history lead back to when the Spanish and Portuguese first explored the Amazon River. History speaks of a Portuguese explorer who, after becoming lost on the river, died of starvation at the present site of Leticia with the rest of his crew. Legend has it that when the Peruvian government decided to colonize the area (in order to prevent the Colombian government from claiming it first) they found a cross inscribed with the words "San Antonio", naming the new town after this cross.
Just as mysterious are the origins of the name 'Leticia'. One legend states that a Colombian soldier fell in love with an Amerindian woman named Leticia and decided to name the settlement after her. It could also be named after Saint Leticia.
It is likely that these stories are largely fictional, albeit with kernels of truth in them. Leticia was originally named San Antonio by the Peruvians, but no evidence of the cross exists.
Small border incidents between Peru and Colombia occurred in 1911, and in 1922 a controversial agreement was reached between both governments, awarding the Leticia area to Colombia in exchange for recognizing Peru's rights to the zone south of the Putumayo River, which was also claimed by Ecuador. This agreement proved to be unpopular among the Peruvian population, despite the treaty's ratification in 1928.
The Population of Leticia
Though the League of Nations' intervention had officially ended the war, the Colombian government was still wary of the Peruvians, and decided to populate Leticia with people from Bogotá in order to ensure the town's loyalty to Colombia. Most of the people who came from Bogotá from the 1940s to 1965 still live in Leticia today. During that time, Leticia was greatly expanded, with a new main street being built. However, the city's industries have changed little since then, with agriculture and tourism still being the prime sources of income.
The violent 1970s
In the 1970s, illegal drug trafficking became a new way to make money in this region. During the late 1960s and 1970s narcotic drugs were bought and sold in broad daylight.
For Leticia, this was a time for great growth. Several rich cartel leaders built big houses such as the Casa Grande and contributed to the economy. Drugs were transported by truck to boats on the Putumayo River. This was to avoid shipping by air. The concept was to build a 70 km (~35 miles) highway to the small city of Tarapacá. The first 12 km were all that were ever finished before cartel members were arrested.
The drug business was eventually slowed down when new tough-hitting cops were brought in to Leticia. They stopped many drug cartel leaders in the city, seizing such famous places as Monkey Island and the Casa Grande for the government.
Recent history
Little of note has occurred in the city in the last twenty years. In 2003 President Alvaro Uribe came to the region and listened to the issues of the townspeople for 12 hours. He promised to bring in help for Leticia's sagging economy, including building a branch of a famous Colombian resort chain, the Decameron Resort Company, to attract tourism and aid social problems. In late 2004 a hotel was sold to Decameron and has since brought much tourism to the area. They have also promised to bring in a new airline company to compete with Aero Republica, which has monopolised flights to and from Bogotá, charging near 250 dollars for a round trip flight.
People
The majority of people who live in Leticia come from somewhere else. There is no obvious majority; even many of the people that came from Bogotá had moved there from somewhere else. People from Bogotá,
Food
Leticia is a melting pot for food even though they commonly eat the same things each week; each region of Colombia's delicacies are made here. For example, many people make Sancocho, a hearty soup, in different regions of Colombia. Each family will have its own variation. Common staples are meats baked together with potatoes, and sometimes vegetables, usually cooked over a stovetop in a pan. A usual Sunday meal might consist of grilled meats, cooked in makeshift charcoal grillers, served with rice and plantains.
Getting there by plane
You can only get into this spectacular, tropical and adventurous town from Colombia by plane. The only place connected to Leticia by a commercial airline is Bogota - its El Dorado International Airport has flights to Leticia on Aerorepublica. These flights are quite expensive, mainly because Aerorepublica is the only airline serving this distant destination. The flight lasts two hours.
Getting there by boat
From Peru you can take a rapido (speedboat) from Iquitos to Tabatinga in Brazil or Santa Rosa in Peru. This will take you approximately nine or ten hours and cost you around US$50-60. These two towns are very close to Leticia at the tripartite border of Peru, Brazil and Colombia. There are also other, slower boats which ply the same route, which may well be cheaper.
What to do
Because of its privileged position as a triple frontier and being very close to a tributary river Javary, Leticia/Tabatinga can serve as the perfect base for eco-tourist activities as well as for the studies of wildlife and flora in the Amazon region. It can also be the perfect starting point for visiting indigenous tribes such as: the Tikunas, Yaguas, Huitotos and Boras in the Amazonas. On the Yavary river you can find the Yaguas and Mayorunas.
Close to Leticia there is also the National Park of Amacayacu which is located on the Colombian territory. On the Yavary River there is also a natural reserve. The Ribera Peruana is also a zone with virgin tropical forest. Amongst others in the Ribera Peruana, the Cayaru River can be found.
Leticia/Tabatinga also greets 2 or 3 tourist cruises in the season between March and April such as the MV World Explorer, MV Bremen, MV Le Levant. Celebrity guests have included the Microsoft's Bill Gates.
Leticia Hotels
- Hotel Anaconda Hotel Anaconda is the best choice. 50 Rooms with A.A, swiming pool, Restaurant, Cable TV and diferent services. All mayor credit cards. Also the Hotel has Anaconda Tours, operative agency who provides the main tours around the Amazonas River, near villages in Peru and Brasil.
- DecaLodge Ticuna Only five minutes from International Airport Vasquez Cobo, just in the estrategic Leticia's Port where begins the cultural tringle formed by Brazil, Peru and Colombia. All inclusive features breakfast and dinner. 28 rooms with 2 doubles beds or 1 king size bed. Restaurants, bar, swimming pool for children & adults, daily Activities - city tour, transportation to Isla Los Micos and eco-adventure excursions and tours to sites of interest.
San Andrés and Providencia
San Andrés and Providencia is one of the departments of Colombia. It consists of an archipelago of islands about 775 km (480 miles) northwest of Colombia and 220 km (140 miles) from the coast of Nicaragua. Its capital is San Andrés.
History
It is possible the islands were first discovered by Christopher Columbus during his fourth voyage in 1502, although there is no evidence to confirm this. Many historians agree that the archipelago was discovered in 1629 by English Puritans and Jamaican woodcutters and was then conquered by the Spanish in the second half of the 17th century. For 200 years control of the islands changed hands several times, falling under the domain of Spain, Britain, France, and The Netherlands at various times.
The islands were visited often by pirates, among them the English pirate Henry Morgan who used them as a base of operations and, according to legend, as a hideaway for his much acclaimed treasure. In 1670 he took over the islands until 1689. In 1803, after Spain's Viceroyalty of New Granada had been reestablished in 1739, the archipielago and the province of Veraguas – covering the western territory of Panama and the eastern coast of Nicaragua – were added to its area of jurisdiction. In the later colonial era the territory was administered from the province of Cartagena.
After gaining its independence, the Republic of Gran Colombia occupied the islands in 1822 and transferred control over them to the department of Magdalena. Subsequently, the United Provinces of Central America (UPCA) did not recognize the occupation of the islands and claimed ownership over them, while Colombia in turn protested the UPCA's occupation of the eastern coast of modern day Nicaragua. The UPCA federation dissolved in civil war between 1838-1840 and the resulting state of Nicaragua carried on with the dispute, as did the Republic of New Granada (made up of modern Colombia and Panama) that emerged from the dissolution of Gran Colombia.
Colombia later established a local administration ("intendencia") in the islands during 1912. The signing of the Esguerra-Bárcenas treaty in 1928 between both governments temporarily resolved the dispute in favor of Colombia. However, since 1980, when the Sandinista government assumed power in Nicaragua, a constitutional reform was enacted and the treaty was renounced.
Nicaraguans claim that the treaty was signed under United States pressure and military occupation and thus does not constitute a sovereign decision, while Colombia argues that the treaty's final ratification in 1930, when U.S. forces were already on their way out, confirms its validity.
In 2001 Nicaragua filed claims with the International Court of Justice (ICJ) over the disputed maritime boundary involving 50,000 km² in the Caribbean, which includes the islands of San Andrés and Providencia. Colombia has claimed that the ICJ has no jurisdiction over the matter and has increased its naval and police presence in the islands. It has also prepared the legal defense of its case that will be presented before the tribunal. In addition, Colombia and Honduras signed a maritime boundary treaty in 1999 which implicitly accepts Colombian sovereignty over the islands. It should be noted that Nicaragua and Honduras still maintain several other territorial and legal disputes.
The island of Providencia was hit by Hurricane Beta on October 29, 2005, inflicting minor to moderate damage.
Economy
The Island's economy was based on cotton-tobacco, sugar cane, avocados and oranges were grown for local consumption. With the abolition of slavery in 1853, coconut palms replaced cotton, and a short while later coconuts were exported to the U.S. The oldest islanders, those who were born in the first years of this century, remember an era when sailing ships bearing the flag of the U.S. came to load their ships with coconuts, tortoise shells, cotton and cedar and to unload liquors, salted meats, flour and trinkets. In 1930 a plague practically destroyed the commercial coconut plantations.
But what definitely changed the island's economy was the declaration that made the island a "Duty Free" port. This happened in 1953 and took the population by surprise. Among the later immigrants are the people who arrived from the Cayman Islands and settled in Providence around the turn of the century, and the Colombians from the mainland who came as merchants and government employees.
Gastronomy
The island dishes are made basically from red snapper and other fishes, conch, lobster and crab. Flavor is added by coconut, plantain, breadfruit and spices. The most representative of these dishes is the famous rondón, made with fish, pig-tail, conch, plantain and coconut milk. It is available in restaurants specializing in island food, or at the tables which island ladies have at the roadside on Sundays and holidays.
Restaurants specializing in international cuisine offer meat, poultry and pastas, as well as seafood.
Language and Religion
The official language is Spanish, although all of the islanders speak "Caribbean English" among themselves. In the islands coexist Catholic, Baptist and Adventist religions, and the Christian Mission.
Municipalities and Islands
Besides the main islands of San Andrés and Providencia, with their respective small satellite islands, there are eight atolls that belong to the department, including submerged Alicia Shoal.
Municipality of San Andrés
San Andrés Island
This is the main island of the archipelago and of the departamento. It measures 12 km in length with a width of 3 km and covers an area of 26 km². San Andrés consists of sedimentary rocks that have been laid down upon a former volcano of ancient origins. It consists of a chain of low hills rising to 55 meters, forming a north-south central spine to the island, which is in turn bordered by a low coastal plain. There is a tiny lagoon in the center of the island called Big Pond. San Andrés is covered with coconut palms. The western shore is made up of limestone deposits and white clay covered in part by coral sand carried in by the waves. The topsoil is thin and of a dark reddish color with frequent outcroppings of coral rock. The coral formation of San Andrés, and particularly the reefs along the eastern shore, gives the sea an unbelievably beautiful array of colors.
The principal town is San Andres in the north of the island. Another town is San Luis on the east coast. Cayo Johnny (Cayo Sucre) lies 1.5 km ENE of German Point (Punta Norte), the island's northern tip, and Haynes Cay lies about the same distance east of the island. Cotton Cay is less than 1 km south of San Andrés town, on the northeastern coast.
San Andrés is the capital of the Colombian department of San Andrés y Providencia and part of its Caribbean region. Estimated Population in 2005 is slightly over 100,000 inhabitants. The native population, about 40% of the residents are black. Their first language is English and they hold tightly to their culture. They speak an accented version of English called Creole. Colombians moving to San Andres now make up over 50% of the population and they speak Spanish. Most blacks on the island are bilingual. The inhabitants are mostly poor but tourism is now blossoming. Several all-inclusive resorts are located on San Andres and the scuba diving is some of the best in the world.
San Andrés has a population made up of many different races and cultures. Its architecture ranges from colorful wooden houses in the native districts to modern buildings where the later settlers live. San Andrés has a history of pirates, slaves and missionaries. San Andrés is English, Spanish, reggae and salsa music, crystal waters and the scene of various sports. San Andrés is as well an irresistible shopping center, the peaceful world of lush countryside, trees, flowers and fruits. A colorful contrast of peace and tranquillity and the noisy chatter of busy thoroughfares
This small part of Colombia that basks in the sun of the Caribbean, offers the tourist a thousand new and fascinating things to do every day and every night. There are days at the beach to enjoy any of the many water sports, and afternoons visiting the island's attractions. Or perhaps an exquisite dinner with friends after the sun sets. These are some of the activities that make San Andrés and its people so unforgettable.
Downtown
Downtown San Andrés is locally known as North End, here is where the tourist, business and shopping zones, government offices and the main beach are situated. Musical concerts are organized on the main beach, and the majority of the restaurants are in this area. The architecture is basically modern, although a few Island houses remain as a reminder of days gone by.
The main beach of the Island is known also as Sprat Bight, it has 450 meters of white coral sand, crystal clear water and is one of the most popular beaches on the island. Here one can find island girls to make the popular corn row hairstyles (canga), small boats to navigate to the cays and fiendly people playing with a frisbee. Johnny Cay is right in front of this beach exhalting the beautiful view.
San Luis District
San Luis is one of the native districts of the sland, with wooden houses and Caribbean architecture. In the past it was the main port where coconuts were shipped out and merchandise was brought in. There are lovely beaches in this district, as well as some well known hotels and
Morgan's Cave
The infamous pirate Henry Morgan was resident in the archipelago and it was from here that he planned various assaults on galleons laden with gold destined for Europe. It hasn't been established exactly where his treasure was hidden, but some islanders affirm that it was in Morgan´s Cave, a small deep lake within a cave of coral rock.
The Cove
This lovely bay is the best place to contemplate the exquisite sunsets. Naval ships and Caribbean cruises anchor here. An excellent diving spot. Restaurants selling local dishes are to be found in this area.
The Pox Hole
The sea has carved out a natural swimming pool in the coral rock, which is great for swimming, snorkeling and diving. It is to the South-East of the Island, next to the Tom Hooker road.
The Hill District
The Hill is another native district of the island. The main tourist attractions located here are The Big Pond and the Baptist Church. The Baptist Church was the first church on the island. Because of its elevated location, it serves as a guide to vessels approaching the island. Each Sunday groups of beautifully dressed islanders attend services there. The Big Pond is 400 x 150 meters, and more than 30 meters in depth. This beautiful place is home to a large variety of birds, small alligators, boas, crabs, and fish. Coconut palms, mango trees and other fruit trees surround the pond.
Johnny Cay
Johnny Cay is a tiny island which can be seen from the main beach. It is a favorite spot for tourists. The liveliest of the cays, which shady palm trees, music, typical food and crystal clear water.
Haynes Cay
To the East of San Andrés you can see Haynes Cay and the Acuario. Haynes Cay is a coal cay with dozens of palms trees. Right next to it is the Acuario, a small sandy peaceful cay. Both of these are surrounded by all the shades of blue the sea could possible have. A great number of water sports are done in this areas.
Blowing Hole
It is located on the most southern tip of the island. This natural phenomenon, the islander's pride and joy, is produced by a series of subterranean tunnels in the coral reef that come together at this point just a few meters from the sea. At high tide when a wave comes in through the tunnels with sufficient force, the compressed air in the tunnels comes rushing through the hole.
San Andres Island hotels
The tourist who arrives on the island will always find a hotel within his expectations; accommodations range from the most sophisticated with all modern conveniences to simple, family style hotels, in which you can feel perfectly at home. Along the Colombia Avenue, which runs along the beach, are located most hotels, and if you like to stay in more calm surroundings, check in at a hotel on the other sides of the island away from the city. The following are hotels we recommend. You can contact them directly for details and prices.
- Hotel Casablanca - new hotels, with immense facilities satisfy the needs of massive tourism. Our guests are different, they come to enjoy very special moments, to feel free, to relax in the confidence and warmth of a small 4 star hotel with island tradition and class. At Hotel Casablanca you enjoy personalized attention, a rare treat in the modern world. Enjoy the very best gastronomy on the island, choose the best water sports, shopping, trips, sailing, fishing and diving.
- Noble House - If you're looking for a place to lodge in the Island of San Andres, in a calm place, with a different enchantment, impeccable, without any worries, close to everything where all your necessities and expectations are fulfilled. A place where you are not just one more guest or just another room number either, but an extra friend. We are located right in the heart of the economic & political centre of the island. Oriental architecture and construction show warm, peaceful colours with fine detail just less than a block from the beach. Also neighbouring are the best stores, banks, airlines and restaurants, all so close at hand. Our hotel offers you two lovely junior suites and thirteen comfortable rooms all fully equipped. You will have a serviceman who will cater to your every need so you will be spoilt beyond your wildest expectations.Our size and quality personnel guarantee it.
- CocoPlum Hotel It is a tropical rustic villa right on the beach, hidden away between coconut palms and surrounded by lush gardens. Its main attraction is the location on the best beach on San Andres.
- Lord Pierre Hotel The Hotel is located in the best area of the Island of San Andres; just a few steps from downtown and the commerce zone. We have a private beach and a sensational swimming pool. You can do all kinds of water sports like ski or windsurf. From our swimming pool you can enjoy a caribbean sunset.
- Portobelo Hotel The hotel has thirty five beds on spacious rooms, most of them have a balcony and sea view, air conditioning, minibar, telephone, Cable TV and spacious bathrooms.
Providencia y Santa Catalina (Providencia Archipelago)
This is the main island (often referred to as Old Providence in English of the archipelago and the second largest of the departamento, located 80 km NNE of San Andrés Island. Together with Santa Catalina Island, a small satellite island close off its northern end, these islands extend 7.2 km in a north-south direction, not taking into account Low Cay which is more than 10 km further north. The land area of Providencia Island measures 17 km². Along with its smaller sister island of Santa Catalina (2 km²) it is enclosed by an extensive barrier reef system of some 35 km in length and covering over 250 km² in area — making it one of the most significant reefs occurring outside of the Pacific and Indian oceans. The mountainous center of Providencia Island rises to three peaks, each about the same elevation of 363 meters. The island consists of sedimentary rocks that have been laid down upon a former volcano of ancient origins. The chief settlement is Isabel Village in the north of the island, close southeast of Santa Catalina Island. Other villages are San Felipe on the west coast, and La Paz in the southeast.
You can take a plane to Providencia (US$ 125 return).
There are a few areas to stay: Bahia Aguadulce is the most popular and has a number of hotels, Bahia Suroeste is just south of that and is more deserted and a much more beautiful beach, the nicest on the island: totally swimmable, incredibly beautiful, very quiet. There are a few types of large birds, you can see the sunset as it's on the west side of the island.
On Saturdays the locals often have horseraces on the beach. Two horses race each other - it doesn't last long but everyone gets pretty excited. Bets, sometimes $1000s of dollars, are placed. The horseraces are surrounded by their own types of magic - each owner will use their own magic tricks to try to ensure their horse wins. The night before the race people might patrol the beach to make sure no crazy magic is being done there by the other party, such as burying a dead dog!
Old Providencia Hotels
The hotels in Old Providence and Santa Catalina are small, comfortable and very familiar. Here you will always be received as an old friend. These hotels have all services, and they are distributed around the islands. Also there are cabins for the lovers of the simplicity, satisfying your needs and very reasonably priced. No matter what you chooses, you will find comfort, good service, kind treatment, and the most important thing, an atmosphere of peace and tranquility.
Most of these establishments are owned and managed by native people. They are built mainly of wood, with the typical style of the Caribbean and their brilliant colors and beautiful rails fitting perfectly with the tropical atmosphere. And living up to the island's extremely laid back reputation, none have websites that I can find, so you'll have to phone. Because there are never enough seats on the plane from San Andres, you will always find a room to stay on the island, but which also means you should confirm your flight ahead of time.
- Miss Elma Hotel - Located in Freshwater Bay, in front of the beach that carries the same name. From this part of the island you will be able to enjoy the magic of the Caribbean. It offers: 4 Suites with oceanic view for 2 to 4 persons; Air Conditioned, Mini Bar, TV, typical Islander food Restaurant of with terrace to the sea. Tel +57 (8) 514-8229 & 514-8166
San Andres coral
- Posada del Mar Hotel - Located in Freshwater Bay in front of the sea. It offers 24 rooms with Mini Bar, Air Conditioned, Direc T.V., fresh water and telephone in the room. Ideal place for relaxation and to enjoy the beautiful sunsets. Tel +57 (8) 514-8052 & 514-8168
- Cabanas el Encanto - Located facing the beach of Freshwater Bay, its independent modules offer privacy comfort. Its 13 rooms room equipped with Air Conditioned, Mini Bar, Direct Tv, fresh water . Restaurant service. Tel +57 (8) 514-8131
- Cabanas Miss Mary - Located facing the beach of Southwest Bay, where you will be able to enjoy from a hammock the magic and the charm of the sunsets. It offers 7 rooms for 1 to 3 persons with view to the sea and to the mountains, Air Conditioned, Mini Bar, TV, fresh water, typical islander food restaurant with terrace to the sea. Tel +57 (8) 514-8454
- Cabanas South West Bay - Located 10 minutes from the traditional beach of Southwest Bay, place where is carries out the famous horse race. This hotel built partially in wood with paths of stone offers 17 rooms with T.v. Cable, Mini Bar, and has service of restaurant. Tel +57 (8) 514-8221
- Villas de Santa Catalina Hotel - Located in the beautiful and historical island of Santa Catalina, epicenter of the fights between Spaniards, English and Dutch for the conquest and occupation of the islands. This small Hotel of 7 rooms offers: Conditioned air, Mini Bar, DirecTV, fresh water and restaurant service. Located 10 minutes from of the Dublin Bay and Fort Warwick and to 15 minutes from Old Providence crossing the "Lover's Lane". Tel +57 (8) 514-8400
- Cabanas Relax- Located in the sector of Freshwater Bay with view to mountains. It offers: 8 rooms equipped with: Conditioned air, Mini Bar, DirecTV and fresh water; it has restaurant service is located 5 minutes from the beach. From their balconies you can contemplate beautiful gardens with tropical species. Tel +57 (8) 514-8087
- Siruis Center Hotel - Located in the traditional sector of Southwest Bay facing the beach that carries the same name. This hotel has 4 Suites and 8 rooms with view to the sea. They equipped with: Air Conditioning, color television, Mini Bar and sweet water. Has service of Restaurant and conference hall. From their balconies you will be able to observe beautiful sunsets and the fishing boats that returns from their daily journey. Tel +57 (8) 514-8213
- Flaming Tree Hostal - Located in Santa Isabel, center of the commercial activities of the islands. This small hotel of 9 rooms offers: Air Conditioned, Mini Bar, TV, fresh water and Restaurant service . Has an excellent view to the island of Santa Catalina and its surroundings. Tel +57 (8) 514-8049
- Mi Casa en Providencia Hostal - Located in the traditional neighborhood of Lazy Hill, 20 minutes from the beach of Freshwater Bay. This small hotel of 9 rooms offers Air Conditioned, TV, Mini Bar, fresh water, restaurant service and a magnificent view toward the Caribbean Sea. Tel +57 (8) 514-8188
- Deep Blue Hotel - Located in Maracaibo, view a espectacular view of Crab Cay, where you can enjoy from a hammack the magic of the seven colored sea. It offers 6 cabins and 4 rooms for 1 to 6 people. Services: airconditioning, minibar, TV, fresh water and a restaurant with a terrace over the sea. Tel +57 (8) 514-8126
Punta San Andres
- Cabanas Mr. Mac - Located in the Agua Dulce sector, in front of the sea. It offers 4 rooms with kitchenette, TV, refrigerator, and the warm service of its owners. Tel +57 (8) 514-8366
- Morgan Hotel - Located in Freshwater Bay, near one of the principal beaches of the island. It has an open space where are tourists and residents gather to play domino. This hotel has 22 rooms, offers Air Conditioned, Mini Bar, DirecTV, fresh water and restaurant service, conference hall, and supermarket. Tel +57 (8) 514-8232 & 514-8067
- June's Village - Located in the coasts of Lazy Hill, 20 minutes from the beach of Freshwater Bay. This small hotel of 4 rooms offers ventilator, TV, Mini Bar, fresh water and an excellent attention. Tel +57 (8) 514-8953
- Cabanas del Sirenita - Located 10 minutes from the beach of Southwest Bay. It offers 4 small apartments equipped with kitchen, TV, refrigerator, beautiful gardens and the warm attention by the owners. Tel +57 (8) 514-8224
- Cabanas las Pequenitas - These charming cabins are located in Freshwater Bay near the beach. It offers 3 cabins with basic service of ventilator and refrigerator. Tel +57 (8) 514-8213
- Cabanas Sony - Located in the tourist zone of Freshwater Bay, 5 minutes from the beach. Rooms equipped with Air Conditioned, DirecTV, Mini Bar and fresh water. Tel +57 (8) 514-8112
- Cabanas Agua Dulce - Located on the turist zone of Freshwater Bay, approximately at 10 minutes from the beach, with a view to the mountains. It offers 23 rooms with air-conditioning, mini bar, freshwater, directv and restaurant service. Tel +57 (8) 514-8405
- Sol Caribe Hotel - Located on the Freshwater Bay, in front of the sea. It offers 34 rooms with air-conditioning, mini bar, TV and a restaurant with a terrace to the sea. Tel +57 (8) 514-8036
- Cabanas el Recreo - Localizada frente a la playa de Freshwater Bay, sus módulos independientes ofrecen privacidad y confort. Ofrece 13 habitaciones con Aire Acondicionado, Mini Bar, Direct Tv, agua dulce y restaurante. Tel +57 (8) 514-8010
Restaurants
The native food represents a very important part of the islands culture and of course, it will be one of the attractions of your visit to Old Providence and Santa Catalina. The typical dish by excellence is "rondon", elaborate with fish, conch, yucca and "dumplings", cooked in an exquisite sauce of coconut milk. Also you will be able to enjoy dishes with crab and lobster, served in the restaurants located in the main beaches and tourist zones. You will also be delighted with their delicious range of desserts. After your desert, begin your night with a cup of the locally-made rum from sugar cane known popularly as "bushy".
- Caribbean Place Restaurant - Located in Freshwater Bay and attended by its owner and chef Martín Quintero. It offers exquisite dishes and desserts elaborate with products of the locality. The fraternal environment and the decoration of the place invites you to enjoy delicious dishes like lobster, crab, conch, and other delights that will captivate your taste. Tel +57 (8) 514-8698
- Sea Horse Restaurant - Located in Lazy Hill with an excellent view to the sea where you will be able to contemplate beautiful and marvelous sunsets while you delights with the dishes prepared by Mr. Mac, owner of the place. Is a very familiar and small place. Tel +57 (8) 514-8283
Travel Agencies
To reserve a tour, visit our coral reeves, go on a eco-adventure, please contact one of our local travel agencies.
- Body Contact - tel. 57 (8) 514-8283 or bodycontact2002@yahoo.com
- Carinnean Dream - Telefax +57 (8) 514-8871
- Viajes Providencia - Telefax +57 (8) 514-8010